The Fashion Emperors’ New ClothesHelmut Lang and Tom Ford came back into circulation this week, and here’s the thing: Neither of them had clothes. Link Theory Holding (parent of Theory) owns Lang’s name now, and the Helmut Lang S/S 07 collection is being designed by Nicole and Michael Colyvos, themselves ex-Habitual designers. The new line lacks the old Helmut’s transgressive touches, and in a way, that’s appropriate. One of the reasons Lang was so beloved by the Zara–Club Monaco–Gap supply chain is that his minimalism was really easy to reproduce in more commercial form — just remove the kinky leather harnesses and bondage straps, leaving fitted trench coats, neatly geometric dresses, slim trousers, and narrow jackets. They probably won’t be smoothing out Lang anymore, because Theory has already done it.
show and talk
Ask a Retailer: Paris Edition
The buyers from Kirna Zabête and Intermix reported from Paris on their favorite collections from the spring 2007 shows. What will you be wearing next season? Space-age outfits, goddess dresses, and Lucite heels. One hopes not at the same time.