It seems plaid has finally grown out of its angry flannel phase — unlike your hipster boyfriend. This Fashion Week, grunge's mainstay looks relaxed and fluid. Y-3 used the nineties pattern in bright orange and yellow from head to toe, while Peter Som belted his gray and black patterned coat. And Preen used it as an accent to otherwise sleek looks.
The hemline on the miniskirt is changing again. And since they can’t get any shorter (or can they?), they’re getting fuller this time with a bubble hem. Costello Tagliapietra gathered her hem on a dip-dye skirt; Donna Karan added a briochelike touch to several pattern dresses; and Hervé Léger used the bubble hem to deviate from a collection of second-skin dresses. Feeling bubbly yet?
Last year's obsession with hats has morphed into a fascination with headbands. Big bows topped heads at Erin Fetherston, who wrapped tresses in feminine flowers. Costello Tagliapietra paired their evening dresses with satin hair bands. Sass & Bide sent out hats, bands, wraps, or feathers with every look. And Elise Overland belted a piece of extra-long fabric for a sixties-hippie feeling. So, go ahead, tie one on.
We were expecting grays, browns, and blacks for fall. But banana yellow? Not so much. Kimora Lee Simmons sent Little Miss Sunshine down the runway in a floor-length yellow dress at Baby Phat, while Lacoste complemented the loud color with a dark cardigan. And Nicole Miller brightened up traditionally dark outerwear with a three-quarter-sleeved coat of color. This isn’t mellow yellow.
Fashion Week will always be hectic. But some designers gave editors a break from having to frantically crane their necks just to catch a model soaring down the runway. They offered up static presentations where you could — gasp! — actually see the clothes.
Last season's LWD has given way to the ever-so-important cocktail dress. Yes, spring is all about dressing up for drinks, dahling — appropriately, the runways were full of cute little numbers that would fit nearly every occasion.
Models’ hips may have a circumference smaller than our thighs, but their skirts don't. This spring it’s all about full skirts the bigger, the better. Vera Wang’s purple-blue skirt is a fresh take on Dior's new look. Behnaz Sarafpour's belted dresses add just enough volume to be sexy not hippy. Thakoon’s bright-pink skirt ballooned down the runway, making this spring a rare gift to big bottoms.
Stylists ditched the traditional red and peachy pink makeup this season, instead opting for more vibrant colors. Lips went the way of tangerines, creating a shocking — yet wholly intriguing — look that was fresh and fun.
It won’t be hard to slip into next season’s dresses with so many exposed zippers. Though his overall show got tepid reviews, Derek Lam was dead-on in incorporating visible zippers into most looks. Carlos Miele’s dark, ruched dresses came with a sexy zipper up the front. And Behnaz Sarafpour highlighted her external zippers all the more with bright yellow trim on an otherwise subdued gray dress. So come fall, remember to zip up.
Marc Jacobs may have wowed the crowds with his beautiful fedoras, but a more wearable option for fall is the bucket hat. Max Azria paired his hats with dresses, belted tunics, and skirts, all worn over tights. Abaete's were more mod than flapper, topping a sunglass-sporting model in a turtleneck dress. Proenza Schouler used them in every look, from fur-trimmed coats to belted sweaterdresses. If you can't afford the clothes, represent with a hat.
If top editors make trends, then it’s time to get pregnant. At fall shows, the only thing Anna Wintour is holding tighter than fur coats is her shiny-haired daughter, Bee Shaffer. The Europeans are also in step, as French Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld has been spotted all over town with her party-hopping daughter, Julia. And it’s not just daughters who are being shown off; Cathy Horyn of the New York Times has been toting her son, Jacob, around. This trend is sure to stick: Youth never goes out of style.