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Tiffin Wallah

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Chef Counters on the Rise; Chefs Put in Their Time on the Line

As chefs and cooks take on more roles of service, they cut out more costs and create a more intimate dining experience, especially at restaurants with counters overlooking the food preparation. [NYT] Related: Ringside Seats at the Chef's Counter Apparently, restaurants’ hanging of red velvet curtains in colder months signals metaphors of birth and womblike spaces for diners. Ew. [NYO] Chefs like Akhtar Nawab of Elettaria and Josh Eden of Shorty’s.32 both spent years cooking on the line before being able to fly solo. [TONY]

Hill Country Triumphs; Perilla Gets Measured Praise, Three Times Over

Peter Meehan hails Hill Country as the barbecue to beat in New York, at least as far as beef is concerned: “[The deckle brisket] is a thing of balance and of beauty.” [NYT] As much as Meehan liked the place, Steve Cuozzo may like it even more, not hesitating to crown it New York’s best: “Lots of New York places now claim to have ‘real’ barbecue, and some truly do. But until they catch up with Hill Country, they’re just blowing smoke.” [NYP] 15 East feels the glow of two-star approval, especially for its star octopus. Ushiwakamaru, though not as good, is cheaper, and that’s worth something. [NYT]

Tiffin Wallah Doesn’t Deliver Yet, But When It Does...

Just how much do you like Indian food? Is it a once-a-month treat, or would you not flinch at a whole week’s worth of dosas and curries? Rob and Robin, in this week’s Openings, bring news of Tiffin Wallah, a Curry Hill vegetarian restaurant where a dedicated delivery chef will prepare meals (whether one night’s worth or an entire week’s worth) when you order online. The menu, which we’ve added to our searchable database, currently features only in-house items; as soon as the delivery portion rolls out in the next few weeks, expect that to be there as well. Tiffin Wallah Menu