Which designers are up, and which are down? We round up the critics' reviews of the important shows so far. Oscar de la Renta shades Marc Jacobs for raves (if not intrigue). The big losers? Proenza Schouler.
The critical keywords for Jacobs's ruffles and Technicolor set (faux-grass runway and blue Styrofoam balls) were "ethereal" (Suzy Menkes), light, peace, and kindness. Although the muted palates and whimsical ruffles were a hit (even deemed poetic), the tulip pants which opened on the sides don't seem to be winning over editors (Style.com went so far as to call them a hard sell). And though British Vogue did refer to the models as bag ladies, they were chic bag ladies. The verdict? A hit, but a little "strange" (Cathy Horyn, New York Times ).
Oscar de la Renta
The critics agreed — for once — that this was a gorgeous show. WWD summed it up in one word: "Fabulous!" Bright, bold colors and feminine cuts won approval from all sides. British Vogue called the collection confident and self-assured — and it will take a woman with those qualities to wear the marigold-, red-, and blue-printed sundresses. Style.com thought the show dramatic, typical of the designer. The raves are still pouring in, but this collection can be chalked up as a big fat win.
Herrera once again eschewed trends and opted for a feminine elegance. Editors, at least those who were present (Horyn was notably disinvited after a bad review last season), liked the show but were not bowled over. Still, Herrera does know her audience, as British Vogue pointed out. IHT raved that the designer had added a fresh energy to her elegance. The big draw for everyone was the consistency of the designs (Style.com). And that seemed to be enough for the critics.
Two words slipped out of everyone's mouth the second this show finished: Hervé Léger (Menkes). The duo seemed to channel the eighties designer, along with some Azzedine Alaïa and Geoffrey Beene for good measure. Was it a success? Afraid not. Critics are tired of seeing eighties flashbacks walking the runway. The clothes lacked refinement, WWD said, and showed the designers' vanity (Eric Wilson, New York Times). And IHT's Menkes was no fan of the construction. The tight, unforgiving fit of the tube dresses and stretchy knits made for a hard sell. But pretty sundresses and linen coats did appease editors. A passable grade, but certainly not the A that last season won.
Diane von Furstenberg
DVF's spring collection, "All About Eve," was an homage to women. The fitted wrap dresses gave way to looser silhouettes and figure-pleasing tunics. The colors were bold and fresh (Horyn), and British Vogue called one look "fashion fun for all." Style.com's Tim Blanks thought the collection too eager to please, but everyone agreed the line was sexy and pretty.
Read reviews of all the shows.
Most Viewed Stories
Connecticut Politician Arrested for Pinching Woman’s Genitals
The Sheer Perfection of Donald Trump’s Golden Shower
The Ultimate Guide to Preparing for the Women’s March
15 Protest Sign Ideas for the Women’s March on Washington
The Divorced Mom Who Cries After Sex
Pakistani Pop Star Stops Concert When He Spots Sexual Harassment
What Romance Really Means After 10 Years of Marriage
Madame Clairevoyant: Horoscopes for the Week of January 16
I’m Anti-Trump, But I Refuse to March
From Our Partners
Who What Wear
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.