New York's biggest shows have kicked off, and the reviews are pouring in. What did the critics think of Marc's hats? Did Oscar go overboard with the astrakhan? Is Carolina's edgy new direction too much? And what about all that fur?
Another Fashion Week, another new Marc Jacobs direction, another series of raves in the press. This time, Jacobs decided the twenties are hot and trotted out belted tunics and coats, fitted sweaters, and pantsuits. Gone were the loose layers of spring, observed Style.com; this time, "the silhouette was long and lean, without being scarily skinny," according to British Vogue. The collection, inspired by Bertolucci's film The Conformist, was full of chic tailoring, autumnal colors, and Stephen Jones's "dramatic brimmed diva-by-day hats" (WWD). Fashion Wire Daily summed up the mood, calling the look "YSL for 2007."
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta's send-up of luxury for ladies who lunch is sure to piss off PETA. Fur was everywhere: "Even the designer's sweaters were lined and edged in the stuff," Style.com pointed out. From astrakhan coats trimmed with wolverine to coyote vests, the fur was sophisticated and elegant, said Fashion Wire Daily. WWD called the collection dazzling, with a cross-generational appeal, while Cathy Horyn dubbed it "casual luxury." But, as British Vogue noted, "those on a student budget need not apply."
Herrera, whose collections are usually described as pretty and sweet, took a "brooding and mysterious" turn this season. And she pulled it off: Geoffrey Deene of Fashion Wire Daily called this one of the finest collections this season. Inspired by Edvard Munch's painting of Hans Jaeger and by Horst's book of interiors, the show was full of sleek dresses, wool felt, and geometric patterns. Fur was a staple here as well, with a muskrat tunic and a cropped jacket in broadtail. Though certainly artsy and intriguing, the collection still "oozed haute sophistication," said Fashion Wire Daily.
Diane von Furstenberg
The new CFDA president's Miró-inspired collection won applause for what WWD called its "savvy fusion of the sensual and the sensible." Von Furstenberg paired cocktail frocks with coats — a practical concept lauded by Style.com — and offered up cocoon dresses and jersey tunics. "The result was a show that was bold, intriguing," raved Suzy Menkes. While Von Furstenberg sent out dresses in a variety of colors and graphic prints, she also "gave in to the lure of black like never before," observed WWD. And her ruffled black taffetas dresses had an "eye-pleasing uniqueness," added the Daily.
This quintessential New York line could have easily been set in Paris this season. "The whole show had a Gallic inflection," said Style.com, with a few nods to YSL. The color palette was black and gray, with bright hues thrown in to help offset the doom and gloom. This new young, sophisticated look was more "graceful and mature" than DKNY's usual sportswear (Menkes). And though there were some low points — heavy hose, thick heels and the scuba dresses that baffled Style.com, the collection was, overall, sweet.
Watch a slideshow of the DKNY collection.