At Calvin Klein, critics marveled at Francisco Costa’s geometric minimalism and also admired Vera Wang’s newfound sensuality. Anna Sui proved quirky but entertaining to most critics, while Zac Posen’s clothes raised brows and questions. See what well-chosen adjectives made it to press in our review roundup.
Francisco Costa’s geometric minimalism generally pleased the critics, who were impressed that the designer’s austerity could be so lively. “The audience was treated to Costa at his best as the designer delivered look after look that managed to be minimal without being cold,” enthused British Vogue. The Daily called the collection’s hard lines “a form of chic seductive stimulation,” while WWD believed “the attitude stormed to the edge of aggression without crossing over.” Though several reviewers found the thumping soundtrack distracting, the clothes more than compensated. WWD liked the “big shearling coat slit in front so that it could do double-duty as edgy maternity wear,” and British Vogue preferred “a stunning patchwork pleated cap sleeve dress.”
Watch a video and a slideshow of the Calvin Klein collection.
Anna Sui’s colorful pandemonium of a collection pleased critics even when they weren’t sure what to make of it. “One look topped the next for originality, use of colour and ethnic references,” said British Vogue. “All of Sui’s work comes from her 1960s soul,” Suzy Menkes explained in IHT. “The result was a show absolutely in keeping with Sui's singular look but refreshed with imagination and a new energy.” WWD was a little overwhelmed, noting the “popping colors and patterns” and finding that “the more subdued looks brought to mind what Sui does best: Cheerful cocktail fare with a hint of quirk.” Style.com loved it the most, declaring that Sui’s fall collection “ranks among her most exuberant” and confessing, “just when we thought we could be thrilled no more, an ethereal-like Aggy moved across the catwalk caped in an elfin-style dress and cape of rainbow-effect silk in a moment of pure magic.”
See a slideshow and video of the Anna Sui collection.
The critical consensus on Vera Wang complimented the designer’s newfound sense of sensuality. “It was fabulous, and gave new meaning to the art of seduction,” said WWD. Style.com identified Wang’s kimono jacket as an “early Fall trend” and deemed the “sculptural bed jackets in quilted faille equally cool.” And while WWD loved Phillip Crangi’s “remarkable jewelry,” Eric Wilson of the Times said they looked “like stripper tassles strung with a lanyard.” But he too was positive: With her “clearheaded collection,” Wang “has begun to see that simpler is better.” British Vogue loved Wang the most, highlighting the evening dresses and deeming the collection “her best yet the epitome of sensual refinement.”
Look at a video and slideshow of the Vera Wang collection.
“What remains to be seen,” coughed British Vogue, “is how his society girls will feel about paying beaucoup bucks for clothes that make them look like they should be seated at the children's table.” The Daily thought the collection was “boudoir met cabaret,” while Style.com said it “both referenced Minnie Mouse and invoked a bordello.” But there were some things to like, too. British Vogue spotted “a seriously stunning smoking jumpsuit,” and Style.com admired the elegance of a herringbone-tweed sheath. Still, the overall effect was juvenile. “So much of this collection looked designed not for grown-up women (ones with jobs) but for living dolls,” complained Style.com.
View a video and slideshow of the Zac Posen collection.
Most Viewed Stories
Khloe Kardashian Sued for Sharing Photo of Khloe Kardashian
Succumb to the Siren Song of Unflattering Pants
11 Pairs of Unflattering Pants That Will Make You Look Ugly-Cool
The Most Depressing Ways The Bachelor Couple Have Described Their Relationship
Hey, Did You Know That French Presidential Candidate Emmanuel Macron Is Married to His High-School Teacher?
Joe Biden Went Off on Male College Students in Speech About Sexual Consent
My Big Boobs Look Great in This Plus-Sized Bra
The Craziest Mom I Ever Met Was Obsessed With Being Popular
Kim Kardashian Talks Caitlyn Jenner’s ‘Hurtful’ Memoir, Says Paris Robbery Was ‘Meant to Happen’
A Snazzy White Blouse With a Colorful Purse Is a Good Look
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.