Throughout the week, the buyers from Bird, Intermix, Henri Bendel, and Bloomingdale's will tell us which runway looks they plan on stocking. In today’s installment, Bird owner Jen Mankins loves the oversize knits at Alexander Wang, the tailoring at Rag & Bone, and the details at United Bamboo.
Rag & Bone
Marcus Wainwright and David Neville presented one of their best collections to date by focusing on what they do best: sharply tailored, menswear-inspired classic silhouettes. I liked the strong, forties-inspired shoulders and sharp collars, militaristic brass-button details, skinny ties, and his-and-hers three-piece suits. My favorite looks were the black wool toggle coat with an oversize collar, and the snuggly extra-long cashmere boyfriend sweaters worn with jodhpur leggings.
View a slideshow of the Rag & Bone collection.
Improvised magic-and-parlor tricks were the theme at Rachel Comey’s Houdini-inspired fall show. Pale-faced models dressed in piles of prints and patterns made me think of a modern-day Wednesday Addams knocking about in her gloomy, haunted mansion. I adore Comey’s quirky sense of color — the presto-print poisoner’s dress in copper-colored silk with shots of lavender was stunning. She is also a genius when it comes to knits — her intarsia séance dress and oversize cherry-red sleepover cardigan looked warm and cozy.
View a slideshow of the Rachel Comey collection.
Inspired by cutting-edge architecture, origami, and theories of modernism, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham elegantly juxtapose traditionally luxurious silk and wool with technical-industrial metal tubing and PVC. Oversize gold dome bangles were stacked three deep, and matching buttons adorned blouses and coats. I fell in love with the cerulean-blue wool coat with box pleats and 3-D prism pockets — roomy enough for stashing my BlackBerry, credit cards, lipstick, etc. The more severe proportions of some styles were lightened up in the details: a hint of beading trimmed a collar, delicate pleating and bows defined dresses, and a shot of pink-and-silver glitter adorned the toes and heels of stunning shoes.
View a slideshow of the United Bamboo collection.
The industrial scaffolding, billowing smoke, and booming soundtrack of M.I.A. and the Gossip set the tough-chic mood for Alexander Wang’s rock-and-roll model army. Baggy cropped trousers, oversize bouclé knits, and a divine leather parka were balanced by sexy-slinky sheer-knit tanks, slim ripped tights, and thermal leggings. I especially loved the stunning black mohair jacket worn over a nude silk-petal skirt, and the washed-leather bags were amazing. The styling by co-collaborator/muse Erin Wasson was spot-on again this season.
View a slideshow of the Alexander Wang collection.