Fashion has two Christmases, you know — those heavenly days on which John Galliano shows his spring and fall couture collections for Christian Dior. And yesterday was our summertime Christmas, as Galliano sent another amazing couture collection down the runway. While we're too busy drooling over the clothes to form coherent sentences about them, the fashion critics certainly cooked up lots of flowery prose. We've gathered their remarks below and translated them into normal English.
Two years ago John Galliano was having tea with Irving Penn when the photographer started telling tales about “his beloved wife Lisa Fonssagrives.”
Hardly a quantum leap to an haute homage, Galliano-style. Still, the designer had other motifs to get out of his system first, including last season’s inflationary tale that was big on pouffery, if not practicality. Did someone say counterpoint?
What it means: Galliano was inspired by photographs of Lisa Fonssagrives, and his clothes last season were so puffy that you could sit down in them by just leaning back a bit.
Hadley Freeman in The Guardian:
The tiny stumble by the model at the end was the only suggestion of anything other than utter confidence at the Christian Dior show in Paris, which opened the couture fashion week.
And in truth, the perilous lurch probably had more to do with her outfit - a corset-like top half covered in crystals worn with an enormous tulle skirt which folded around her in giant pleats, giving her the appearance of a winged sea creature - than anything as distasteful as uncertainty.
What it means: It's a damn good thing she didn't fall (could you imagine?!). And this is likely the only article on the show to mention her wobble.
Hilary Alexander in the Telegraph:
Underlying the attention-seeking transparency, however, was a meticulous attention to sculptural cut and architectural shape, inspired by M. Christian Dior’s original “New Look” of 1947 and his curvaceous “Bar” jacket, and the iconic first super-model, Lisa Fonssagrives, wife of the fashion photographer, Irving Penn.
Galliano re-worked these themes with a modernist touch, which at times veered towards the gladiatorial. He used wide corset-belts in studded black patent, fuchsia leather and pastel snakeskin, which flared out into winged peplums at the hip, to emphasise the extreme hourglass shape of tailored day-suits and coats with full skirts.
What it means: Galliano brought back the Bar jacket (shaped with sloping shoulders, a nipped waist, and flared hips), but since they were all Galliano-ized, they made the models look like gladiators.
Suzy Menkes for the International Herald Tribune:
The feline-faced models with arched eyebrows and succulent, shiny lips were so much in the spirit of Carla Bruni Sarkozy that you half expected her to appear at the finale in the vista of a pillared garden. And the approach that the designer John Galliano has taken in dressing the wife of the French president was the soul of this autumn-winter show: incisive cutting on clothes molded to the body, with a subterranean sexual charge. Or, in the case of this runway, with a sensual shadow of a leg visible through a semi-sheer skirt.
What it means: Galliano designed these clothes with Carla Bruni-Sarkozy in mind, but instead of making the outfits overtly sexual (though if we may say so, we didn't find Bruni's outfits to have sexual undertones), he just put a bunch of see-through skirts on his models.
Sarah Mower for Style.com:
The templates were all there: big coats, wasp waists, nipped jackets, circle skirts, tulle dance dresses, architectural gowns cut from spiraling lace and jutting scrolls of crin. Mostly framed in black and white, with tints of gray, caramel, Parma violet, mint, and chartreuse to follow, the shapes traced familiar silhouettes—albeit a familiarity shot through with Galliano's irrepressible touches of perversity.
What it means: The clothes were bulky in the most expected and gorgeous of ways. But Galliano just couldn't help himself from, you know, throwing in the see-through stuff, which no one really saw coming.
Most Viewed Stories
Donald Trump Spent the Morning After the Debate Fat-Shaming Miss Universe, Again
Hillary Clinton’s Sickest Debate Burns
2009 Called — It Wants Its Vogue-Versus-Bloggers Fight Back.
Former Miss Universe Becomes U.S. Citizen So She Can Vote Against Trump
Area Woman Interrupted by Man 25 Times in 26 Minutes
22 Intimate Lost Photos of Marilyn Monroe
It’s Finally Possible to Understand What Happened to Amanda Knox
Ask a Boss: My Co-worker Wants Everyone to Call Her Boyfriend Her ‘Master’!
The Fashion Executive Who Doesn’t Wear Underwear on Dates
25 Famous Women on Being Alone
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
Latest News from The CutRob Kardashian and Blac Chyna Reportedly Broke Up
TMZ reports that all the baby shower drama stems from a breakup.This Crazy Fact About Lawrence of Arabia Is a Prime Example of Old Hollywood Sexism
Let’s just say it doesn’t exactly pass the Bechdel test.Fashion Bloggers Do Not Deserve This Backlash
Neiman Marcus jumps on Vogue’s bandwagon and blames social media for declining sales.6 Hip-hop Influencers Wearing the Season’s Hottest Puffers
Missy Elliott’s “The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly)” look is back.There’s More to Scandinavian Style Than Ikea
Paris-based designer Tuomas Merikoski on his out-of-the-box line Aalto.Give This Drama-Loving Reporter Her Own Bravo Show
The “thanks a lot, bitch” heard ’round the world.Ask a Boss: My Co-worker Wants Everyone to Call Her Boyfriend Her ‘Master’!
You don’t have to join in their relationship this way.Maya Rudolph on Her Prince Cover Band and Mourning the Purple One
“Everybody has their heroes, and he was mine, and I took it really hard.”Queer Women Are Losing Their Havens Online
AfterEllen was an institution. Now, it’s gone.Justin Theroux Calls Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s Divorce ‘Terrible News’
The actor has answered the first of many questions about his wife’s ex-husband’s divorce.
Doctors are recommending some big changes.It’s Finally Possible to Understand What Happened to Amanda Knox
The new Netflix documentary sheds fresh light on a case that’s captivated the public for nearly ten years.Iran Releases Canadian-Iranian Professor Jailed for ‘Dabbling in Feminism’
Dr. Homa Hoodfar had been held at one of Iran’s most notorious prisons.Mary J. Blige Talks With, and Sings at, Hillary Clinton in Upcoming 411 Show on Apple Music
The 411 will debut on Apple Music on September 30.Gigi Hadid Wants Women to Know They Have the Right to Fight Back
She opened up about her recent assault.How Kathryn Minshew, CEO and Founder of the Muse, Gets It All Done
On veggie squeeze packets, “zombie meetings,” and teaching herself how to become organized.Perhaps This Narcissist Lizard Will Seem Familiar
This week’s “Bermuda Square” comic strip.Donald Trump Spent the Morning After the Debate Fat-Shaming Miss Universe, Again
He doubled down on his comments on Fox & Friends this morning, calling her weight “a real problem.”There’s No Excuse for Not Registering to Vote Because #OurVoteCounts
Register to vote with the Cut.The Novelist Disguised As a Housewife
Shirley Jackson wrote 17 books while raising four children — and she couldn't have had a successful career without them.