The shows roll on, and the reviews roll in. We read and parse them so you don't have to.
"It was a mash-up to end all mash-ups," announced Style.com — of a collection that combined boater hats, apron dresses, and espadrilles — "Mary Poppins goes to Dubai." And "yet somehow," British Vogue marveled, "it all worked. Beautifully." Cathy Horyn of the New York Times said the show presented an "inspired view of American women," borrowing elements from the twenties, forties, and beyond. WWD called it "the most spectacular example of fabric wizardry one can recall this side of couture." Fashion Week Daily likened the display to "a fashion acid trip — a darn good one," and British Vogue "a delightful treat, the likes of which we've never seen before." Stand-outs included black and green "drop-dead gorgeous" cocktail gowns and a "stunning" pair of red and white striped evening dresses. A collection part "wacky," "elegantly sexy" and "fanciful," Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune concluded: "Yet at its most simplistic, the show just presented charming and colorful clothes to stoke fashion's deep desire."
Watch a slideshow and video of the Marc Jacobs collection.
Critics commended Proenza Schouler for forging "subversive" new territory — not to mention nailing the omnipresent jumpsuit. Suzy Menkes praised a "fine transition" into "tough workwear." Fashion Wire Daily noted the pair's "chutzpah and gall" to shake up their aesthetic so dramatically, and a collection that "when it worked was phenomenally cool." WWD, however, sensed that "this was not the most confidently rendered of collections," and Cathy Horyn groused, "they can’t seem to identify an American look of their own." But sequined "glamazon jumpsuits were the order of the day," touted British Vogue, and most agreed that the pair succeeded where others this week had failed. The high-concept shoes, depending on whom you asked, resembled "metallic tools," "New York bridges," "spare machinery parts," or "fuzzy bedroom slippers … with heels that looked like giant drill bits." Although Style.com noted that "at times the wearability of the clothes clearly suffered," most critics applauded a particularly gutsy collection. "They manage to reach a higher level than most of their contemporaries," declared Fashion Wire Daily.
Watch a slideshow and video of the Proenza Schouler collection.
Critics were divided on whether Peter Som’s vibrant collection signified a fresh direction for the designer or a honed version of his signature feminine style. WWD asserted that "the usually prim and proper Som girl let her hair down for spring," and British Vogue concurred that "what stood out most was his new vision." But Robin Givhan of the Washington Post disagreed, noting that the collection had a "safeness and primness to it," as did Style.com. "The color choices were flawless," remarked British Vogue, a compliment echoed by many, admiring shades of "cantaloupe and raspberry or fuchsia and peach." Fashion Week Daily found the collection "as cool and refreshing as an afternoon cocktail," and Samantha Critchell of the Associated Press called it chic and playful. High notes included Bruno Frisoni shoes, a pair of sheer violet trousers, and a "red carpet-worthy" beaded red sheath. Givhan, at the end of the day, was least impressed, prodding "Why so stuffy, Peter Som?" and confessing she longed to "muss up his models a bit."
Watch a slideshow and video of the Peter Som collection.
Thakoon presented a lingerie-inspired, "less first lady-friendly" collection of sheer fabrics and flirtatious prints. WWD called it "chic with a sense of humor," and British Vogue concurred that Panichgul "nailed it beautifully." Style.com allowed that exploring the boudoir trend was "certainly on the money," but wondered if Panichgul was "simply playing to the crowd." Likewise, Robin Givhan from the Washington Post called the show "a guessing game, with the audience watching the designer struggle to clarify his vision." Prints adorned with lipstick marks, winking lashes, and blooms of roses were mostly well received — "cheeky but not cheesy," offered WWD; "playful — but sophisticated," agreed Sarah Critchell of the Associated Press. Fashion Week Daily found the combination of suggestive prints on sheer fabrics "unforgivingly up-front," but affirmed that "the impeccable construction and craftsmanship somehow kept it classy."
Watch a slideshow of the Thakoon collection.
Most Viewed Stories
What, Exactly, Are Melania and Ivanka Trump Trying to Sell?
Ask Polly: I Overshared My Way Out of a Boyfriend!
The Supreme-Branded Metrocard Is Here
Roxane Gay Calls Out Simon & Schuster After They Drop Milo Yiannopoulos
The Single Guy Who’s Pretty Sure He Split the Bill
Even Gwen Stefani’s Kids Think It’s Weird If She Doesn’t Wear Makeup
Reese Witherspoon, Mindy Kaling, and Oprah Winfrey Are Having the Time of Their Lives in New Zealand
Alt-Right Troll Milo Yiannopoulos Uses Campus Visit to Openly Mock a Transgender Student
Melania Trump Removes Language About Making Millions While First Lady From Lawsuit
I Finally Found Gold Hoops Like Sade’s
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.