So many runway reviews! To save you time (can't be late for Zac, after all), we've been compiling critical response all week.
Critics praised Narciso Rodriguez's show as an edgy, sexy departure from his minimalist style. "The collection was as fresh-looking as it was varied," asserted Cathy Horyn. Samantha Critchell of the Associated Press declared that Rodriguez "veered from his signature," and WWD agreed that he "let loose … to daringly brazen effect." Banded black-and-white-striped dresses were stand-outs — "It was all hot and sexy," affirmed WWD. But with the addition of flowing chiffon gowns and embroidered dresses, "the elevated sense of sexiness didn't come at the expense of pretty," Style.com noted, concluding, "this was Rodriguez at his loosest and best."
Watch a slideshow and video of the Narciso Rodriguez collection.
Critics were mostly underwhelmed by Derek Lam's California-inspired collection of flowing, silky sportswear. Suzy Menkes called the collection "pleasant but characterless," adding "it was as if nothing had been quite developed creatively." "Flesh tones were a big story here," observed British Vogue, a palette that WWD thought underscored the "too-serene mood." Many reviewers praised the easy movement of the clothing: Fashion Week Daily called the styles "seductively fluid," and Eric Wilson of the New York Times found it "unusually casual and relaxed." But "[u]nfortunately the collection as a whole failed to generate enough heat to keep this crowd interested," Style.com concluded.
Watch a slideshow and video of the Derek Lam collection.
Betsey Johnson unleashed a fanciful — and surprisingly sexy — show that included cupcakes, pirates, and clowns. The designer delivered a dose of her signature girlie glamour "which at this point she could provide in her sleep," Fashion Wire Daily observed. British Vogue called the collection of hoop skirts, nighties, rompers, and floral prints "joyful and exuberant," and WWD applauded Johnson's "delightful imagination." The playful theme didn't dampen the collection's sex appeal: Fashion Week Daily found the clothing "both Scarlett O'Hara-inspired and very Lolita looking," and Style.com agreed: "Although it was a romp, this was no Romper Room." Apart from denim jackets and the "wench-worthy" off-the-shoulder dresses, most reviewers pondered how some of the zany styles would translate to retail ("the Little Bo Peep dresses would make great sundresses if you took the hoops out," suggested Samantha Critchell of the Associated Press), "but arrrgh, it was just plain fun," shrugged WWD.
Watch a slideshow and video of the Betsey Johnson collection.
Rodarte presented a collection of vibrant goddess gowns, weathered knits, and leather jackets that Fashion Wire Daily declared "simply sensational." British Vogue called it tough and tender, noting many pieces felt like "something the model had tucked away in the furthest reaches of her closet." Several critics praised the Mulleavys' efforts to enhance the wearability of their collection while maintaining their wild originality. Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune applauded the "attempt to broaden the range of this quirky brand," and sighed, "It is a relief to see designers bringing something from a wellspring of inspiration, rather than just making regular clothes." WWD concurred, calling the show a "beautiful, provocative trip" and asserting "these ladies will not allow merch madness to trump their vision." Style.com disagreed, however, carping, "more down-to-earth-wearable pieces would be welcome," and Cathy Horyn of the New York Times complained that the pair "didn’t seem to have a woman in mind when they put together these clothes." But nevertheless, Godfrey Deeny of Fashion Wire Daily loved it most, lauding the sisters' "creative fire power, sheer inventiveness and gutsy sense of innovation," and calling the show "the fashion moment of New York this season."
Watch a slideshow of the Rodarte collection.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Critics applauded the youthful Marc by Marc Jacobs collection as "a compelling sort of coda" to his much-acclaimed Marc Jacobs show. "Jacobs's secondary line is all about color, optimism, and great American style," assessed British Vogue, calling the line "cute, fun, and young." The baby-doll dresses, denim, button-downs, and trenches had a "wrinkled, crinkled, just-out-of-bed ease," observed WWD, adding "there's a lot to be said for the rumpled look." Suzy Menkes particularly loved the accessories — from fez hats to beaded necklaces to seriously cool footwear — declaring the collection "both commercial and cool." WWD summed up the spring line's casual-chic style: "Think playful, through and through."
Watch a slideshow and video of the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection.
Most Viewed Stories
Josh Kushner, Ivanka Trump’s Brother-in-Law, Was Reportedly Spotted at the Women’s March
A Scene from the D.C. Women’s March
Bernie Sanders Wore the Only Appropriate Outfit to Trump’s Inauguration
Taylor Swift Won’t Save Us From Donald Trump
Pro-Choice and Pro-Life Marchers Came Face-to-Face at the Women’s March
The Greatest Signs From the Women’s March
Why the Election of 9 Black Female Judges in Alabama Matters
Madonna to Women’s March Detractors: ‘F*ck You’
16 of the Cutest Kids at the Women’s March
Over 1 Million New York Women Will Have Access to Free Contraception and Abortions
From Our Partners
Who What Wear
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.