Critics Pleased by Trovata, Wooed by Wu

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The shows are in full swing, and the critics are weighing in. We'll be compiling the general consensus throughout the week.

Jason Wu
Jason Wu presented a prim, polished eveningwear collection, leading Style.com to remark, “he certainly does have the immaculate Park Avenue thing down cold.” Several critics delighted in the vibrant color palette, including British Vogue, who gloated that “the prettiest of colors came out to play this afternoon.” The reviewers agreed that Wu bridged the youthful divide without straying from his strengths: WWD called the gowns “young and fresh” and the sheath dresses “sexy.” Style.com noted an “element of quirky whimsy that should broaden [Wu’s] appeal beyond the young ladies-who-lunch set.” Jaunty hats and strappy shoes complemented the looks, resulting in an overall well-received collection that Fashion Week Daily called “truly well tailored, well thought out” and “commercially rich.”

Trovata
Trovata’s buffalo plaid prints, blazers, and easy jumpers pleased critics, who saw a marked growth compared to past seasons. Fashion Week Daily called the look “perfectly preppy,” and WWD detected a “distinctly nautical edge.” Several reviewers noted a newfound air of sophistication: British Vogue referenced “a more refined Trovata muse,” and Style.com remarked that the collection was “more mature and well thought out than previous seasons.” The twill shorts, tailored jackets, and silk-chiffon shirts paired with white Keds struck the right note, topped with some “seriously cool jewelry” by Made Her Think’s Meredith Kahn. Style.com thought that the brand “pushed forward another notch,” and British Vogue agreed, declaring, “With this latest outing, Whitledge seems to have grown into his role.”

Watch a slideshow of the Trovata collection.

Karen Walker
The reviewers raved over Karen Walker’s latest collection, which “put a twist on tradition.” “Blazers were blatantly oversized, button-ups were pleated at the hems, and shorts were full, even pajama-esque,” noted Fashion Week Daily. British Vogue loved the “refreshing take on animal prints,” particularly a leopard fabric in mint green and brown that the mag predicted would “undoubtedly end up on the pages of Teen Vogue come May,” and added that in Walker’s hands, “ruffles were done right.” “The boyfriend’s back,” remarked WWD, praising a “well-rounded line-up” that successfully paired men’s tailoring with feminine pieces. Despite the boyish slant, Style.com found a short navy jumpsuit “adorable” and loved Walker’s glam “L.N.D.s (little navy dresses).” British Vogue summed up the general approval simply: “It's dressing made easy — and you can trust that you'll look good.”

Watch a slideshow of the Karen Walker collection.


Ruffian
Critics differed on how to best describe the spring collection from Brian Wolk and Claude Morias of Ruffian. “If Pochahontas were one of ‘Charlie’s Angels,’ she would have enjoyed the hippie-chic patchwork denim and HotPants,” WWD ventured, while British Vogue noted the collection’s fringed-footwear theme and declared, “It’s time to take inspiration from Little House on the Prairie once more.” Style.com envisioned a girl who is “One part Kate Hudson in Almost Famous, another part Kate Moss at Glastonbury.” Whoever the real muse may be, the reviews were mostly positive for the diverse collection, which Fashion Week Daily called “cohesive.” British Vogue praised the duo’s “bohemian touch.” Though Style.com was wooed by the line’s faded and frayed denim jackets, they contended that “some of the other pieces looked a bit costumey, as if the models were playing dress up in their grandmother’s closets.” But British Vogue asserted that “Ruffian’s greatest strength is still in its textiles,” lauding the collection’s intricate, sheer prints.

Watch a slideshow of the Ruffian collection.