Critics Unsure About Marc by Marc and Derek Lam, Love Badgley

By
From left, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Badgley Mischka, and Derek Lam. Photo: Imaxtree

Only one more day to go and the critics persevere: They're divided over Marc by Marc Jacobs, praise Badgley Mischka's drama without the bling, and find Derek Lam's collection safe but underwhelming.

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs showed a "mad mix" of hiking boots, woolly knits, floppy hats, and plaids that divided critics. Despite being reminiscent of "Annie Hall threads," WWD felt that this was one of the secondary label's more "grown-up and pulled-together outings." British Vogue declared "this outing was far sweeter in feeling than Monday night's show," and Eric Wilson of the Times called it "one of his liveliest shows in a while." A few critics disagreed, notably Suzy Menkes of the IHT, who said Jacobs's second showing "looked like more of the same — but with all the passion spent." Not that it wasn't fun, tempered Style.com, but "his models looked more like junior mountaineers than they did club-hoppers."

Watch a slideshow of the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection.

Watch a video of the collection.

Badgley Mischka
Badgley Mischka presented a dramatic lineup of elegant tulle and satin gowns. Style.com deemed it an overall solid collection, infused with "a healthy dose of straight-up glamour." British Vogue agreed that "it was a glamorous, Thirties moment, with, dare we say, a little rock 'n' roll edge." Fashion Wire Daily praised the sparing use of embellishments or "bling," and WWD called it a "beautifully restrained" showing. Samantha Critchell of the AP noted that the preponderance of black made the vibe "more somber than red-carpet ready," but added that the use of gold velvet gave the show a "characteristically luxe feeling."

Watch a slideshow of the Badgley Mischka collection.

Derek Lam
The critics were mostly underwhelmed by Derek Lam's pretty but safe showing. Style.com said he went the "give-the-ladies-what-they-want route," concluding, "you walked away wanting something more." Suzy Menkes of the IHT asserted that "polite clothes may not be enough to stir up fashion," and British Vogue called it a "hushed" display. WWD disagreed, declaring it "one of Lam's strongest and most focused collections to date." Curve-hugging jersey georgette dresses were standouts, which British Vogue said "made us want to stalk around Manhattan ... with an eye toward seduction."

Watch a slideshow of the Derek Lam collection.

Watch a video of the collection.