Lauren Kovin may only be two seasons into her eponymous line, but she has received considerable buzz for her sculptural creations. (You've seen her artful clothes in Numero, Dazed, Figaro — to name a few.) With a background in fine arts, Kovin focuses on avant-garde design. Her first eight-piece collection was snapped up in its entirety by Oak. Kovin followed up with a fall line consisting of seven architecturally inspired looks, accented with bold knotted pieces of jewelry she co-designed with Anastasia Kolos. We sat down with the designer to talk about designing a successful line during these economic times and why she loves her dolls.
You collaborated with Anastasia Kolos on the jewelry shown with your fall line, are there plans to expand to an accessories line?
Not at the moment, but I love working with other artists, so we’ll see what other partnerships are in the future.
Have you adjusted your designs and production to the change in the economy?
No, if anything the pieces are more expensive.
What's your creative process like?
Hyper-personal. I take an idea, whether it’s a color or a fabric and it morphs from there.
Do you have any advice for designers who are starting new lines?
I would say wait until you have a point of view, start small, and don't rush it.
Can you describe the kind of woman who wears your designs?
She gets it.
What's the first designer thing you ever bought?
A navy-blue Comme des Garçons dress, bought twelve years ago and I still have it.
What trends do you personally like for spring?
To be honest, I haven't been following the trends. Spring is about refreshing, and will be devoid of trends. Which reminds me — don't forget protect your fall stuff with mothballs!
Are there any trends you wish would go away?
Are there any trends you wish would come back?
Earth tone on earth tone.
Who are your favorite designers?
The usual suspects: Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Bernhard Willhelm, and friends.
What designers or labels do you actually wear the most?
I try to wear my own stuff as much as possible.
Who is one designer that everyone should know by now but doesn't?
Luis Cascante. He’s a close friend of mine who honed his sculptural-pattern-cutting skills at Threeasfour and Kai Kuhne. He works with me now and is extremely talented.
Where do you shop?
I stopped shopping in stores and I love to hunt for sales online now!
What’s the one thing you really want to buy?
These days, items for the studio come first and I’m deciding between a Bernina or Juki sewing machine.
What's the one thing you can't live without?
My dolls! Just kidding, that’s my favorite line from Valley of the Dolls, where Patty Duke says she can’t live without her pills which she calls dolls. I feel the same way about a nice bottle of wine.
What's something everyone should have in their closet?
Quality basics — every outfit needs a strong foundation