The last season of men's shows wasn't the best ever. Critics and retailers complained of a lack of innovation on the Milan runways, where the clothes were largely black and drab and, in some cases, just odd (Gianfranco Ferré's funnel collars, anyone?). Things were better in Paris, where Lanvin presented a standout collection, Alexander McQueen showed a riff on Sweeney Todd, and Gareth Pugh floored critics with his first spectacular menswear effort. Hopefully we'll see more creativity in Milan and Paris for the spring 2010 shows next month. The calendar already looks promising. The number of new designers showing outnumbers those who have dropped out. Alexis Mabille will show menswear separately from women's for the first time. New York–based Tim Hamilton will make his Paris Debut. Issey Miyake will stage his first men's show in years (he's been doing presentations for menswear). We hope the clothes are just as exciting as the lineup. And if not, well, hey, John Galliano will never disappoint us.