It’s Official: Martin Margiela Is No Longer Designing His Line

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Maison Martin Margiela, spring 2010. Photo: Imaxtree

Finally, Renzo Rosso confirms months of rumors that Martin Margiela is not currently designing his namesake label. Rosso, who bought a majority stake in Maison Martin Margiela in 2002, told WSGN, "Martin has not been there for a long time." But as if to keep everyone thinking, he added, "He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."

Critics assumed Margiela had left after the label's disappointing fall 2009 collection. Suzy Menkes didn't like the spring 2010 show, either (her word was "tragic"). However, WWD is more welcoming of the Margiela of the future. Rihanna, who has been going to basically every show in Paris this season looking for things to wear in the photos for her next album, sat front-row. The label surprisingly issued a tip sheet before the show. WWD thinks the crumpled moon boots would look great on her in a picture. They might, but if she really wants to do something different, we might style them with kittens poking out.

See a complete slideshow of Maison Martin Margiela's spring 2010 collection.

Margiela Sans Margiela [Vogue UK]