After two days as a chef-in-training at culinary school, Victor Glemaud realized that fashion, not food, was his ultimate calling. So he dropped out and moved back to New York, where he began working for designer Patrick Robinson. Now, a decade later, Glemaud has become known for his luxurious knits and slightly roughed-up, dapper style. We sat down with Victor to chat about California skater style, wearing white jeans after Labor Day, and a very special pair of Carol Christian Poell trousers.
I see lots of knee socks and some bare chests for spring. What was the inspiration behind your latest collection?
It was about L.A. and Malibu (places I know nothing about, really). I don't go there much, since I don't know how to drive. The collection is about surfing, health, being cheerful — all the things a New Yorker assumes L.A. is about. Basically, it's very L.A. chulo/skater.
How does it differ from what you did for fall?
Fall was darker, falling apart almost. And definitely not cheerful.
Describe a favorite piece you’ve designed.
The double cardigan.
You just teamed up with Earnest Sewn. Any other collaborations in the works?
For spring, I did board shorts with Quiksilver and coats with Mackintosh. I also made shirts with Gitman Brothers.
Describe the type of person who wears your clothes.
Cool guys and girls.
Who are your influences?
Patrick Robinson and Donatella Versace.
What was the first designer item you bought or wore?
With my own money? The first purchase with my own cash was when I was working for Patrick Robinson in the late nineties. I bought gray wool, wide-leg trousers by Carol Christian Poell. I saved to buy them, even though they cost like $400, which was a lot of money then. They are so beautifully made — they have striped-silk pocket lining, Riri zippers, and hand stitching. Fantastic! I still own them, though sadly I'm a 33-inch waist and they no longer fit. I can never get rid of them.
Who were some of your favorite designers growing up? What about now?
Dries van Noten, Kostas Murkudis, Comme des Garçons, and YSL (the Hedi years) were personal favorites. I was very into fashion growing up — I spent my money on clothes and booze, it was great! I still admire the same people, but I've been very fortunate to see many designers at work, so the current list is very long.
Who are your style icons?
Victor Pierre Glemaud Sr. and George Cortina.
Tell me about your personal style. What pieces or labels do you wear most?
My dad’s old knits, Dries van Noten, Junya Watanabe, Antonio Azzuolo, and my own stuff. My shoes are always by Trickers, J.M. Weston, and Church's.
Has your style changed over the years?
I grew up in New York, so I was always around fashion; you couldn’t help but see it all around you. In the nineties it was much grimier here, but my look was very preppy, more match-y and buttoned-up. These days, the look is a bit more fucked up, with more of an air of “I don’t care.”
Where do you shop most for clothes in NYC?
Odin, Barneys and Comme des Garçons.
Is there an item you are currently coveting?
Chelsea boots from J.M. Weston and lace-ups from Church's.
What trends are you into this season?
I had two suits made (both with double-breasted jackets) in navy and gray. I'm also into white Levi's jeans — I'll be rocking my 501's all fall.
What’s something every man should have in his closet?
Finish this sentence: I never leave the house without