Critics Applaud Altuzarra, Are Mixed Over Prabal Gurung

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From left: Victoria Beckham, Prabal Gurung, Joseph Altuzarra. Photo: Dan Lecca, Imaxtree (2)

The reviews keep filing in. Joseph Altuzarra won over critics with his edgy collection. Prabal Gurung's tailoring was praised, but his ruffled dresses raised a few eyebrows. Victoria Beckham's forties Dick Tracy-themed collection charmed just about everyone. Find out what else the critics had to say.

Altuzarra

The critics applauded Joseph Altuzarra's hard-edged fall collection, though some regretted the show's vampy finish. Cathy Horyn of the New York Times praised his "masterfully light hand with couture materials" and the "consistently delicate" workmanship on tough-looking materials like leather and glazed wool. Style.com called it a "fierce and fearless" collection, asserting that though this was only Altuzarra's third collection, "his newcomer days are over." The black leather, bondage-inspired looks were "ultraspecific and ultraeditorial," noted WWD, but Fashion Wire Daily felt they "show[ed] off his strong skills as a tailor." Most all preferred the mainly black segment of the show to the closing series of red velvet suits and evening gowns. WWD thought the red looks "lacked a level of refinement." Fashion Wire Daily was less forgiving, deeming them appropriate for "an Olympic figure skater channeling a 'Medieval Times' wench," or perhaps "a 'Buffy the Vampire Slayer' theme party." Still, despite the closing missteps, "there’s something to be said for an earnest young designer willing to take risks," allowed WWD.

Watch a slideshow of the Altuzarra collection.

Prabal Gurung

The critics raved over Prabal Gurung's tailored looks, but panned his overwrought dresses. The coats and jackets were a high point: WWD called them "sensational," Style.com deemed them "inventive without being tricky," and Cathy Horyn of the Times loved a mixed-fur jacket that "captured [a] lighter, offhand attitude." The Wall Street Journal found the collection "sumptuous and technically accomplished," and Style.com felt it proved that Gurung is "just as savvy as a tailor as he is a dressmaker." But it was the evening looks that fell short. "[T]he ruffled evening looks didn’t seem new and indeed looked a bit tortured," sniffed Horyn, and WWD noted "overzealous cuts" and "too-complicated folds and flounces." Still, the stronger elements of the collection saved the show. Though Gurung "at times made things a little too interesting," ventured WWD, "the intrepid spirit thus displayed more than made up for the obvious growing pains."

Watch a slideshow of the Prabal Gurung collection.

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham's Dick Tracy-inspired fall collection charmed the critics — not to mention her personal greetings and look-by-look narration. British Vogue called it "a very beautiful collection that evolved her body con aesthetic," and Style.com declared that "there wasn't one bad dress in the bunch." The Wall Street Journal was impressed by "the craftsmanship evident" in the clothes. Most critics noted the evolution of Beckham's designs, admiring a "newfound focus on draping and fluidity." In that vein, Style.com swooned over an inventive wool crepe long-sleeve tunic that "had an everyday kind of sexiness that will win her a whole new class of fans." WWD was pleasantly surprised to find "none of the neophyte awkwardness one might expect from a four-seasons’ new designer." Instead, it praised a "genuinely beautiful" lineup, adorned with spare embellishments that added "[j]ust the perfect dash of spice."

Watch a slideshow of the Victoria Beckham collection.