The latest reviews are in, and reactions are mixed. The critics grappled with Rodarte's layered, romantic collection, which left some wishing for more wearable off-the-runway looks. They welcomed Marios Schwab to Halston, but differed on the success of his debut. But all gave rave reviews to Marc Jacobs's nostalgic and classically beautiful fall show. Read the rest of what they had to say.
Though the critics admired the artistic, romantic nature of the Mulleavys' fall show (especially compared to the dark and foreboding spring collection), most wished for more wearable off-the-runway looks. Through she admitted that some of the constructions were beautiful, Cathy Horyn of the Times found that the concept — that of a young woman dressing in haphazard layers in the dark before work — "rapidly wore thin, and perhaps it was not developed enough." British Vogue agreed, sighing, "As always, the theme was played out to the nth degree with the sisters employing their usual wrapping/draping/deconstructing." Many lauded their originality: Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune found the collection "intriguing," and Godfrey Deeny of Fashion Wire Daily felt the pair's "imaginations impressed with every look." But for many, it didn't deliver enough real-world clothes. Style.com called the Rodarte vision "a rarefied one, remote for the most part from the real day-to-day question of what to wear now."The Wall Street Journal thought the clothes evoked the Mad Hatter, adding, "[t]hey'd require a certain Bohemian personality to wear them." In the end, Deeny thought the silhouette "recalled their previous shows, which was a pity," and British Vogue agreed, encouraging them to step out of their comfort zone to avoid "becoming one-trick ponies."
Watch a slideshow of the Rodarte collection.
The critics swooned over the lovely, subtly styled Marc Jacobs collection. "[T]his show was the antithesis of the Marc Jacobs fashion madness of just a few seasons ago," asserted Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune, calling the show "womanly and perfectly judged." With "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" playing in the background, British Vogue felt the collection was "simultaneously sweet and soignée." Many others were touched by the sentimental feel: "[T]he show played like a nostalgia trip, one so lovely it was quite easy to be seduced," Style.com sighed, and WWD agreed, adding, "If a fashion show ... can be moving, this was it." With fur-trimmed coats and iridescent velvet dresses, "the Jacobs catwalk was crowded with poetic touches," noted Fashion Wire Daily. ("There were so many pretty winter dresses that I almost lost count," concurred The Wall Street Journal.) Ultimately, the clothes "were exquisite without being complicated ... were familiar without being merely tweaked ... [and] made you feel good," concluded Cathy Horyn of the Times.
The critics welcomed the debut of Marios Schwab for Halston with high hopes, though they disagreed on the success of the fall presentation. "What a difference a creative director makes," gushed The Wall Street Journal, noting that the liquidlike studded gowns would shine on the red carpet. British Vogue called it a "beautiful collection, which keeps one eye on the past while moving assuredly into the future." Fashion Wire Daily admired Schwab's restraint, writing that "[r]efreshingly, each piece was left to speak for itself ... This was all the better to show off Schwab’s impressive sculptural feats." But a handful of reviewers disagreed, and some worried that the collection was too similar to Schwab's own eponymous label. Though Style.com deemed it "a notably confident extension of his own aesthetic," it panned "tricksy" dresses with epaulets: "They trapped, rather than wrapped." Eric Wilson of the New York Times called the silk jersey dresses "Halston-ish," concluding that Schwab "appeared to struggle in his first effort." Though it wasn’t a strict interpretation of the Halston aesthetic, WWD praised the collection as "appealingly modern." "Halston's girl may still hit the town, but she has a bit more discretion," it concluded.
Watch a slideshow of the Halston collection.
Most Viewed Stories
Looks Like Kate Middleton Is Enjoying the View in Canada
Brad Pitt Fights Back Against Angelina Jolie and Her Plot to ‘Destroy’ Him
Trump Campaign Manager Accidentally Refers to His ‘Abuse’ of Women on Live TV
Megyn Kelly Roasts Trump’s Campaign Manager for Claiming He Doesn’t Make Sexist Comments
Finally Someone Called Donald Trump a Giant Baby and It Was Michelle Obama
What It’s Like to Be a Female Reporter Covering Donald Trump
22 Intimate Lost Photos of Marilyn Monroe
Prince Married to Commoner Still Too Good to Tweet
Democratic Women Senators Are Very Concerned About Donald Trump’s Weight
It’s Finally Possible to Understand What Happened to Amanda Knox
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.