The early reviews are in from London Fashion Week. The critics were impressed by Marios Schwab's sexy pinafore dresses, though the collection left some wanting more. Nicole Farhi paraded effortlessly chic and wearable clothes, "for days when no great fashion statement is needed but when quality is still key," as British Vogue put it. And Clare Waight Keller earned praise for mixing her own daring vision with Pringle's storied history, sending out fisherman's knits and flowing wader trousers. See the rest of what the critics had to say.
The reviews were positive for Marios Schwab's Austrian-inspired fall collection, despite a few missteps. "The collection was a modern twist on a look you might have last seen at Oktoberfest," suggested The Wall Street Journal, but, rather than folksy, the clothes were "polished and sexy and hugged curves with tailored precision." British Vogue agreed, deeming it an "incredibly precise, focused collection today that managed to be romantic." The modern take on a pinafore dress was a central piece, which was met with mixed reactions. ("It was all eyes to the bosoms, which were framed like a portrait around a white blouse," smirked Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune.) WWD felt that the idea "worked best when the designer took a simple, modern approach," and deemed the dresses weighed down with crystal embellishments and embroidery less successful. Though Style.com noted that "it didn't quite have the impact of Schwab's first contributions to shaping the body-con movement four years ago," it added that the designer is "keeping a grip on designing the kind of pieces retailers ask him for," including the on-trend teddy-fur coats. "The concept was interesting, but had this body-conscious designer forgotten the lower half?" inquired Menkes. "Ultra-short skirts seemed a lazy way to finish off Mr. Schwab’s vision." But despite scattered criticism, British Vogue felt the collection represented "a more mature version of the Schwab label."
Watch a slideshow of the Marios Schwab collection.
The critics gushed over Nicole Farhi's creative, wearable fall collection. "[It] was packed with the cool and the beautiful," declared The Wall Street Journal, calling it "infinitely wearable" and "effortlessly sophisticated." British Vogue also complimented the wearability — "one of the most accessible shows we've seen this week" — assessing that "relaxed elegance is Farhi's game." The coats were standouts for most, including a "sassy" trench in wool and patent leather. "She was truly mistress of her own brand of severe chic," lauded Style.com, and WWD similarly deemed it "chic and urbane." Though Style.com noted that some of the bias cutting and asymmetrical draping created "strange volumes" that missed the mark ("Who wants to wear a skirt gathered at the waist like a sack?" demanded Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune), the designer "mostly kept a good balance between artistry and reality."
Watch a slideshow of the Nicole Farhi collection.
Pringle of Scotland
Clare Waight Keller’s collection of inventive knits impressed the critics. The clothes evoked a dated Scotland, "one of clanging armor, rugged fishermen and kilt-clad clansmen." Yet, despite the strong imagery, "she did so with a light hand, turning out a romantic collection," noted WWD. Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune deemed Waight Keller "a gem of a designer" who makes knitwear "look fresh and modern while retaining a warp or web of heritage." All agreed that the fisherman's knits were the strongest pieces of the collection. (The delicate knitwear "wouldn’t likely survive a horseback ride, but will serve you well on an evening out," admired The Wall Street Journal.) On the other hand, the critics were divided on the success of the slouchy trousers inspired by wader boots: "[T]hat's a lot of pant for a body to wear," ventured Style.com. But though Pringle may be "a work in progress," Style.com praised Waight Keller's confidence in blending her vision with the company's long history. "She's taking risks en route," it concluded.
Watch a slideshow of the Pringle collection.
Most Viewed Stories
Elizabeth Warren Just Said What Most Women Wish They Could to Donald Trump
I Tried Hillary Clinton’s Diet and Now I Sympathize With Her
Blake Lively Reportedly Just Gave Birth, and You’ll Never Guess Who’s Running to the Hospital
Brad Pitt Fights Back Against Angelina Jolie and Her Plot to ‘Destroy’ Him
What It’s Like to Be a Female Reporter Covering Donald Trump
Here Are the 5 Most Random Anecdotes From Tiffany Trump’s New York Times Profile
The Mysterious Deaths of Two Sisters in a Luxury Hotel
Prince George Has No Time for Justin Trudeau’s High Fives
It’s Time to Stop Writing ‘I Hope You’re Well’ in Emails
Looks Like Kate Middleton Is Enjoying the View in Canada
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.