The latest batch of reviews offer both snarky barbs and generous compliments. Critics loved Posen's flirty floral minidresses, but mourned the lack of gowns. Thakoon won raves for his admirably restrained use of fur. And Carolina Herrera was lauded for bringing back a comforting (and unapologetic) sense of opulence. Click ahead to read the rest of their reactions.
Zac Posen presented an upbeat, slightly scaled-back show that earned tentative praise. Fashion Wire Daily found the deconstructed collection "more finely tuned, but no less creative," praising Posen's voluminous silhouettes. "[T]his was a dead-aim collection, targeted to the fashion-loving young woman who likes clothes with a glossy snark factor," asserted Cathy Horyn of the New York Times. British Vogue admired Posen's "surprisingly refined" daywear, and WWD agreed that the collection was "pleasantly stripped-down." But there were also critiques among the praise. The Wall Street Journal called the show "busy to the point of cluttered" (it also noted a "surprising number of empty seats"), while Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune called Posen's tendency toward excessive embellishments "too desperately upbeat." Most all wistfully noted the dearth of evening gowns. But in their place, Posen presented well-received full-skirted, floral frocks (Menkes dubbed them skater dresses), which were deemed "fun," "stylish," "pretty," and "flirty." "His corseted minidresses will find happy homes indeed with the party-hopping set," predicted Style.com.
Watch a slideshow of the Zac Posen collection.
The critics were charmed by Carolina Herrera's glamorous, opulent fall collection. After a bit of experimenting for spring, Herrera "came back to the ultra-luxe side of things," noted Style.com, employing a "lighter, more familiar hand." Indeed, she "seemed to put more of herself into the clothes," assessed Cathy Horyn of the New York Times, including a dress printed in tiny reproductions of a family photo. The clothes were anything but understated, with fur trim, voluminous sleeves, and wide-leg silk pants. The loyal Herrera customer "will wear a wide-brimmed hat, high heels, and a fur cape while carrying a dozen shopping bags," smirked The Wall Street Journal. "There was drama ... but it was a drama that made sense," Horyn agreed. If there were missteps, it was in some of the over-the-top gowns. "The disconnect between day and night was a bit jarring," ventured Style.com, and WWD thought some of the gowns, though beautiful, "crossed into the land of too much." But all seemed to appreciate Herrera's return to her familiar elegance (in fact, the clothes "scream[ed] money in the cleverest of manners"). "The message was of utter refinement," lauded Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune; somehow, "[t]he overt embrace of opulence felt oddly comforting," concluded WWD.
Watch a slideshow of the Carolina Herrera collection.
Thakoon's inventive, fur-draped collection won raves. "[I]s Panichgul over being New York's resident romantic?" asked Style.com, which appreciated "something new about the slightly sinister feel" to the clothes. In a week rife with shaggy, dramatic furs, "the collection was beautifully electrifying in its restraint, offering one of the more refreshing takes on this season’s emerging bestial trend," asserted WWD. British Vogue admired "effortlessly cool" fur-trimmed bomber jackets and hoods, and Style.com swooned over a "Big Bad Wolf blouson jacket in fox." Cathy Horyn of the Times called it "compelling," "different," and "beautiful," noting his skilled work with various textures. "In the end, the collection boiled down to consummately wearable clothes: terrific coats and jackets, comfy long john leggings and the prettiest of draped blouses, skirts and dresses," concluded WWD.
Watch a slideshow of the Thakoon collection.