Haider Ackermann’s Debut Menswear Collection Romantic But ‘Costume-y’


Last night at the Pitti W tradeshow in Florence, Haider Ackermann showed his 2011 resort collection, which included the first batch of clothing he's designed for men! The event was pretty sexy, and even included a performance by Jamie Bochert, who closed Marc Jacobs's spectacular fall 2010 show in New York. It sounds like Ackermann's show made Style.com a little hot and bothered, rendering a review that reads like a romance novel:

[T]he scenario was seductive — the women in their languidly draped palazzo pants and layered silk tanks, the men like exotic brigands in rig that was part samurai, part corsair. It was easy to imagine the latter sweeping the former onto an Arab stallion and riding away into the desert, civilization surrendering to barbarism, even if what actually happened was more measured and polite.

But the dreaminess of it all didn't distract them from their duty as critics to come down from fantasy land and review the clothes. Though they wished he had shown more women's looks, what of the men's?

It was costume-y with its mirrored patchworks and brocades, but its boho nomad spirit felt like an authentic expression of the outré world defined in Haider's book.

But men's clothes often look more costume-y on the runway than women's clothes, which is why the men's shows are so much fun. Normal dudes, who won't sweep ladies off their feet and ride off into the Arabian desert as though in a scene that got cut from Sex and the City 2, likewise aren't going to wear this stuff, mirrored patchwork or not.

Resort 2011: Haider Ackermann [Style.com]
Jamie Bochert Serenades Crowd at Haider Ackermann's Pitti W Show in Florence [Fashionologie]