Eviana Hartman first moved to New York in 2000, landing a job as an editorial assistant at Vogue. From there, she climbed the fashion ladder, becoming a writer at Teen Vogue and the fashion features editor at Nylon. She eventually left the glossies behind to freelance, penning a column on environmental topics for the Washington Post. At the time, she was sharing an office with designer Samantha Pleet, and the two co-designed a small range of organic cotton pieces. The collection took off, and Hartman finally founded her own label, Bodkin, in 2008.
Last year, ecominded German brand Hessnatur tapped Hartman to design a capsule collection using all-natural fibers. The first collection launches this month (available online in the U.S.), and she's jetting off to Germany this summer to finish the spring 2011 collection. In the meantime, she's hunting for a larger studio space for Bodkin in New York and moonlighting as the drummer for the band Open Ocean; catch them August 7 at Memory Motel in Montauk. We chatted with the writer, drummer, and designer about dressing for Vogue, vintage hunting, and the paradox of bad style.
What inspires your designs?
Architecture and science, modern art, Scandinavian street style, and somewhat hazy memories of the style of the late nineties — but none of this is literal. I like the idea of clothes that are progressive for their time, yet subtle and useful enough to be enduring, like an Eames chair.
What's the first designer item you ever bought?
I think it was a Marc Jacobs bag, when I first moved here and got the job at Vogue. I thought my serious job required a serious bag. Honestly, I can't stand big, glossy leather "It" bags. I'm a tote-bag-carrying Brooklyn girl.
How would you describe your personal style?
I guess it's slouchy and casual in spirit, and often a product of laziness. But it's also carefully calibrated to be different and hard to place: not a reflection of current trends, but not normal. It usually involves a combination of oversize comfy clothing, big jewelry, and platform shoes.
What trends are you appreciating right now?
I just got back from a few days in New Mexico, and I went crazy at one thrift store and bought all of this vintage Chico's art-mom stuff, like boxy tunics that I'll wear as minidresses, a long knitted vest, and a linen vest covered with shell buttons. Now I'm feeling like dressing like a Santa Fe healing-arts practitioner circa 1998 for the rest of the summer.
Any trends you're ready to see retired?
I'm sick of the "edgy" look: body-con, porkpie hats, and stilettos with angry hardware. But I actually don't mind that people are trendy. I don't mind bad taste or even mediocre taste. I'm always studying what people are wearing — bad style keeps my mind working.
What's one item you're saving to buy?
I may have to get a pair of Robert Clergie crepe-sole platform boots to get me through the fall and winter. Comfort and height are an elusive combination.
What's something you never leave the house without?
I have this men's cardigan from Muji that's made of the thinnest jersey. It rolls into a tiny ball in your bag, weighs maybe a few grams, and it's quite handy for countering blasts of air conditioning.
Most Viewed Stories
Can We Finally, Officially, Say That Amber Heard and Elon Musk Are Dating?
The 26-Year-Old Couch-Surfing After a Breakup
Why Everyone Loves the Alpha Girl
Will We Abandon Women’s Rights in the Name of Progressive Politics?
I Was the Queen Bee: 3 High-School Bullies Describe Their Reigns of Terror
When Women Pursue Sex, Even Men Don’t Get It
Hey, Did You Know That French Presidential Candidate Emmanuel Macron Is Married to His High-School Teacher?
Madame Clairevoyant: Horoscopes for the Week of April 24
A Woman Used Her Boyfriend’s Balls As a Makeup Blender
Gigi Hadid’s Family Celebrated Her Birthday by Bringing Out the Baby Pictures
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.