Critics Praise Ford’s Return to Womenswear, Scorn Y-3’s ‘Déjà-Vu’ References

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From left: Y-3, DVF, and Max Azria. Photo: Imaxtree

Fashion Week rolls on, bringing the hotly anticipated Marc Jacobs show tonight. Read what the critics thought of the most recent shows, from DVF's polished, glamorous collection to Y-3's unfortunate redux.

THE HITS:
Tom Ford
• "Each looked sensational, and as individual as she could be. They were the height of glamour ... with that big-time sense of fashion that one sees less and less of today on the runways." [NYT]

• "The returning fashion hero regained his glory in this cut-to-the-chase collection ... Mr. Ford came back to women’s design with all the dash and detail, the expertise and the irony of his earlier collections ... he succeeded in bringing a vibrant emotion to a collection of superbly crafted clothes that, while not new or edgy, filled the needs and stoked the desires of women as diverse as those famous and fabulous females in his show." [IHT]

Diane Von Furstenberg
• "[T]he show and clothes were some of her strongest in years. [The collection] had a gutsy sense of color combination, the best prints we’ve seen from DVF for at least a decade and a fine use of draping and proportion." [Fashion Wire Daily]

• "This season the layers had been peeled off, the Bohemian references abandoned and the silhouette cleaned and freshened. The result was a powerful collection that seemed to draw new, bold strokes around the body ... The general effect of the collection was of female empowerment." [IHT via NYT]

• "[The clothes] had that powerful DvF essence for which she became known in the seventies ... And this was a collection for women, not ladies, if you know what I mean — women who stride in long steps across the street, shaking their hair just like Ms. Von Furstenberg does." [Heard on the Runway/WSJ]

• " ... [A] glorious mash-up of colours that shouldn’t work but somehow do ... a winning mix of office-worthy ensembles, sporty separates, and louche, languid looks that would be more at home poolside in Saint Tropez ... fresh, classic, casual, cool, energetic — and very glamorous — style." [British Vogue]

• "The pilings were out, and clean, crisp sportswear was in ... the result was refreshingly pared down and grown up." [WWD]

See a slideshow of the full Diane Von Furstenberg spring 2011 collection.

THE MISSES:
Y-3
• "Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 show was an intense mash-up of hard-core street-edge meets punker, Goth, dangerous vamp and bondage babe. All of which would have been spot-on — if the collections were celebrating fall 2009. Instead, the Y-3 lineup felt completely off-course with the spring vibes elsewhere. Among the misfires: velvet, biker chains, colossal harem pants and sexpot bustier and bra tops galore." [WWD]

• "Y-3 descended into Goth territory, with lips made up in blue, sliced tops and predominantly black clothes. They hit the wrong note in a summer season and missed the beat of sleek simplicity seen elsewhere in New York." [IHT via NYT]

• "At parts, it felt a bit déjà-vu. To see black leather motorcycle vests and jackets after they were so hot a year ago was a bit surprising. Harem pants? Last year, too ... More trendy than cutting edge, Y-3 is designed to reach a wide audience of young hipsters." [Heard on the Runway/WSJ]

See a slideshow of the full Y-3 collection.

Max Azria
• "[A]side from a photo shoot for a perfume ad on some white sand beach, just how many occasions call for an arsenal of beige and cream frocks? Unfortunately, the sportswear pieces included in the collection were minimal in a different sense of the word, as in virtually nonexistent... a tad uneventful as a full-length runway show." [Fashion Wire Daily]

See a slideshow of the full Max Azria collection.