Editors thought Gareth Pugh would put on a runway show of his spring 2011 collection in Paris until he told outlets the day before that no photographers would be allowed. Instead of a runway show, he showed invited guests an eleven-minute film of his new collection starring Kristen McMenamy and created by ShowStudio's Ruth Hogben. Pugh has shown films instead of runway shows in the past, and while he says they don't save him time or money, they do save him the stress of uncertainty associated with a live show.
“With a show, a lot rides on that very small amount of time and the whole thing comes down to image,” Mr. Pugh said. “If a model trips or has a problem with shoes, that is the thing that endures. It is liberating for a designer not to have to worry about a show. You can get the models to be even more expressive and do it all in a more concise way.”
Of course, Pugh recognizes that fashion, which embraces all change but the technological, is afraid of this kind of thing. So he provides runway images of each look in the collection to keep people from getting too scared. Assigning seats to establish the hierarchy inherent in runway shows, on which editors thrive, probably also helps.
This season, Pugh's film sparked the question a major critic seriously raises once every twelve months or so: Are runway shows necessary? Suzy Menkes explored it this time:
“It’s like going from theater to cinema — and I absolutely believe it is going to happen for three reasons,” said Mr. Knight, the great originator and instigator of fashion live on film.
“Firstly, it is a true artistic expression that the designers can control,” he said. “Secondly they can get so many more people, from 300 to three million. And because — although it hasn’t happened yet — designers will want to sell their clothes.”
Also, it's a huge pain in the ass for the industry to have to trek to four cities twice a year looking at the clothes all day every day! Check out Pugh's spring 2011 film and think about whether you'd like to see more of this, or the runway show seems like a better format for new collections. We like that instead of having a girl lying on a sooty bedsheet writhing her clothes off, Pugh has McMenamy standing up, making intimidating movements, and wearing pants.
Most Viewed Stories
What, Exactly, Are Melania and Ivanka Trump Trying to Sell?
Ask Polly: I Overshared My Way Out of a Boyfriend!
The Supreme-Branded Metrocard Is Here
Roxane Gay Calls Out Simon & Schuster After They Drop Milo Yiannopoulos
The Single Guy Who’s Pretty Sure He Split the Bill
Even Gwen Stefani’s Kids Think It’s Weird If She Doesn’t Wear Makeup
Reese Witherspoon, Mindy Kaling, and Oprah Winfrey Are Having the Time of Their Lives in New Zealand
Alt-Right Troll Milo Yiannopoulos Uses Campus Visit to Openly Mock a Transgender Student
Melania Trump Removes Language About Making Millions While First Lady From Lawsuit
I Finally Found Gold Hoops Like Sade’s
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.