Zac Posen created a slight upset in the New York calendar when he decided to reserve our fair land for the showing of only his lower-priced Z Spoke line and take his collection show to Paris. Well, that finally walked today, and critics don't seem to believe the move did him any good.
Apparently, Yohji Yamamoto, who sat front-row at Posen's show, suggested the young New Yorker bring his collection to Paris. Posen is an outspoken admirer of couture, and aimed to employ those sorts of techniques in the spring 2011 line. He even described it as "couture for day" — but critics aren't convinced.
Christina Binkley of The Wall Street Journal thought the collection felt "unfortunate" at times and "tried too hard":
Perhaps it was the juxtaposition with the highly ornate ballroom at Paris’s Westin hotel, or maybe it was the difficult comparison with the high-concept designers in Paris, but the collection tried too hard to grab attention with boudoir games.
Costumey pink feathers streamed from transparent black negligees. Tight ruching up the back of skirts added an unfortunate sort of evening allure.
There were some apparent fit problems that may have stemmed from the complications of designing a collection in New York while showing it in Paris.
WWD just came out and said the move to Paris did him "no favors":
Posen did himself no favors by choosing as his venue the spectacular, 19th-century gilded ballroom of the Westin Hotel, formerly the InterContinental, and still synonymous with the couture shows of the late Yves Saint Laurent. This room, and this city, it must be said, expects to see better clothes than what Posen paraded.
Suzy Menkes fails to see the daytime appeal in any of it:
Even the evening gowns were dressy by any standards.
Daytime? Perhaps Mr. Posen thought he had sorted that with the debut of his second Z-Spoke collection in New York. Or maybe, if you are thinking showgirls, the outfit for a noontime wake-up coffee would be a body-skimming mesh jumpsuit, perhaps with a curvy little jacket. And feathers.
It reminded the Associated Press of a strip club:
The sultry palette of blood orange, coral and rich velvety reds recalled the mise-en-scene at Paris' classy strip clubs, like the legendary Lido or the Crazy Horse.
It was a bold Paris debut for Posen, a one-time critical darling whose label has hit hard financial times of late.
Still, initial reaction to the show — which included a heavy-hitting lineup of top models like Carmen Kass and Isabelle Fontana — appeared mixed. Applause was tepid, and the A-list guests made a beeline for the exit as soon as the lights went up.
No one seems to be softening their true feelings — and that is a rare thing in fashion reporting.
Most Viewed Stories
Bernie Sanders Wore the Only Appropriate Outfit to Trump’s Inauguration
Kellyanne Conway Goes With a Subtle Look for the Inauguration
This Conspiracy Theory Will Change How You Feel About the Bachelor Villain
Here’s the Official List of Speakers for the Women’s March on Washington
15 Protest Sign Ideas for the Women’s March on Washington
The Ultimate Guide to Preparing for the Women’s March
Michelle Obama’s Face Perfectly Sums Up How You’re Feeling Today
Melania Trump Wears Ralph Lauren on Inauguration Day
Bernie Sanders Reviews the Balenciaga Men’s Collection
Your Guide to Peeing During the Women’s March on Washington
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.