Olivier Theyskens’s Move to Theory: ‘It Is Not Something Expected From an Edgy Designer’


When the Times's Eric Wilson sat down with Olivier Theyskens and Theory co-CEO Andrew Rosen to talk about Theyskens' new role as the label's artistic director, there was lots of fluffy talk about how "natural" Theyskens felt about working there and what "an amazing response" they'd gotten to the Theyskens' Theory capsule collection (which is very cool, in that minimalist Theory way). And this is all well and good, but what about the fact that Theyskens has a pretty edgy reputation as a designer and Theory is, well, not really edgy at all? Where is the middle ground between the Nina Ricci collections full of mullet dresses and the wear-to-job-interview pants for which Theory is so widely known and loved? Theyskens explained:

[I]n the main Theory collection you are working more on what people wear every day. It is an amazing opportunity to think about everyday life. It is not something expected from an edgy designer, but to me it is interesting.

So how he feels about Theory's signature clothing — flattering-yet-appropriate office wear — has yet to be seen. However, Rosen explained that bringing on Theyskens was "not a risk" at all, in his opinion. Which, in Theory's world of safe, risk-free dressing, is obviously meant as a compliment.

Olivier Theyskens and Theory: Q&A [On the Runway Blog/NYT]

Related: See Olivier Theyskens’s First Full Collection for Theory