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Critics Laud Givenchy’s ‘Fierce’ Dog-Inspired Collection, Pan Alexis Mabille’s Lace-up Pants

From left: Raf Simons, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler

The men's shows have come to a close, and the critics have weighed in. Read on to see what they had to say about the elegant, modern, and silly looks to come out of Milan and Paris.

THE HITS:
Jil Sander
• "The Jil Sander look seems perfectly in sync with the second decade of the new millennium: streamlined tailoring that balances bold, unstructured coats and jackets with narrow pants. It made for modernity in motion." [NYT]

• "Everything had the youthful, futuristic gloss that Simons conveys so well, and the pristine quality for which the Sander label is prized....Simons’ straight-line jackets looked new and exciting; the expertly tapered pants right on target...this collection is the picture of modernity." [WWD]

• "Simons elaborated on the sobriety by using the quilting of the Amish as the signature detail for jackets, pants, and tops. On the other hand, he injected an ironic note by duplicating the nobility of the handcrafted Amish tradition with the most advanced fabric technology. That's where Raf-ness and Jil-ness reunited—and it felt so good." [Style.com]

See a slideshow of the full Jil Sander collection.

Rick Owens
• "A standout show...The move uptown of the Owens man was palpable, yet the designer kept a rawness of invention that gave a charge of energy to even his streamlined clothes." [NYT]

• "Rick Owens continued to sharpen his tailoring skills in a polished, industrial-chic collection peppered with outerwear stunners." [WWD]

• "You just know that Rick Owens is one of the very few fashion designers you can go to primal places like that with. But if there's always something primal about his shows, there is nothing primitive about his clothes." [Style.com]

• "[A]lthough the collection didn’t offer new shapes, it made an excellent case for simplicity and comfort." [On the Runway/NYT]

See a slideshow of the full Rick Owens collection.

Alexander McQueen
• "[B]oth powerful and true to its roots...With none of the late designer’s more weird and disturbing elements — Dickensian canes or patterns of bones — the show still expressed a historical Englishness and glowed with the quality of material and craftsmanship." [NYT]

• "Uniforms are neat, strict, clean, reassuring - and endlessly stylish. Creative director Sarah Burton gave them new verve in a sure-handed collection that spanned regimental and military dress through to Savile Row....[with] a frisson of McQueen perversity." [WWD]

• "Burton projects McQueen's historicism and romanticism with an almost scary effortlessness, but she brought her own irreverent openness to the collection." [Style.com]

See a slideshow of the full Alexander McQueen collection.

Givenchy
• "There was a lot that was visually compelling about the show, not least because Mr. Tisci chose a very diverse cast of models that suited what he was trying to communicate with the clothes." [On the Runway/NYT]

• "One could never fault Givenchy's creative director Riccardo Tisci for lacking chutzpah when it comes to inspiration...the clever cool classic pieces mixed into the collection - like beige cashmere jackets with zips down the spine, or the padded down jackets with over-sized fur collars - will find plenty of fans." [FWD]

• "Who let the dogs out? Riccardo Tisci did, in a collections as fun as it was fierce.... This was a sportier take on Tisci’s dark vision, and a knowing take on street style." [WWD]

• "The proportions of Tisci's clothes—shorts with everything—celebrated the sporty ballers who turned him on to menswear in the first place... And what the hell, if you've got the legs, you might as well show them in Givenchy shorts." [Style.com]

See a slideshow of the full Givenchy collection.

THE MISSES:
Alexis Mabille
• "Did anyone buck the sartorial trend? A designer who might have been expected to follow the sartorial route took another path. Alexis Mabille , whose motif was once a bow tie, had exchanged that for a new symbol: lacing up the leg of tight pants. Those trousers looked cute with plaid vests but too much — much too much — of a not-so-good thing." [NYT]

• "Hits included a velvety military peacoat, while nude tulle T-shirts splashed with whiskey-label logos were plain silly." [WWD]

• "Some ideas hover in the fashion ether in a given season, getting twisted and tweaked by designers across the board. Safe to say, Alexis Mabille's campy Scottish theme isn't one of them...The dominant pant was a skinny jean that laced all the way up the leg like a corset. Wouldn't try to sausage Begbie into a pair of those. Forget about gilted brocade pants and tulle tees sequined with Mabille-ified whiskey logos." [Style.com]

See a slideshow of the full Alexis Mabille collection.

Thierry Mugler
• "Yet the show itself was dramatic only in its use as a model of the totally tattooed Rick Genest...They were nice enough — oversize jackets and baggy pants, with Latex arm pieces and apron skirts giving a minor kick to the silhouettes — but nowhere near the mesmerizing, rigid fashion armor that Mr. Mugler once produced." [NYT]

• "Mr. Formichetti raised expectations, though, and generally met them...I think it might have been interesting to see clothes more directly influenced by his muse, especially in terms of cut." [On the Runway/NYT]

• "[H]is debut men’s collection, designed with wingman Romain Kremer, was tethered to the real world, centered on sharp-shouldered suits and coats. ...Balancing dark styling with commercial garb, the collection was a good start." [WWD]

See a slideshow of the full Thierry Mugler collection.

Photo: Imaxtree

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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