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Critics Love Deacon’s ‘Fetishistic’ Collection, Disagree on Kane’s Questionable Taste

From left: Mulberry, Burberry Prorsum, Matthew Williamson.

From Giles Deacon's 'fierce and worldly' dominatrices to Aquascutum's bulky, droopy dresses, catch up on the critics' highlights and quibbles from London.

THE HITS:
Giles Deacon
• "To fine tailoring and a deep understanding of couture fabrics, Giles brought his predominantly black collection to life, with tufts of fur, surface sheen and with just the right touches of color and pattern from teal blue to Art Nouveau flowers. A subtle historical reference seemed to be woven into each piece — but it was history with a twist." [IHT]

• "Deacon delivered his most accomplished collection to date… He populated that picture with women as fierce and worldly as dominatrices…Do such creatures even exist? For perhaps the first time in Deacon's career, it just about seemed possible." [Style.com]

• "This collection marked a volte-face… Giles Deacon returned to sharply executed, intricately crafted clothing — to spectacular effect… The collection was a sophisticated example of Deacon’s ever-inventive take on design — and his clothes wouldn’t look out of place on the Paris couture." [WWD]

• "[Deacon’s] autumn/winter 2011-12 collection was seriously strong… this was a beautiful show befitting of its serious venue and it left us on a high despite being late in the very long penultimate day of womenswear shows in London." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Giles Deacon Collection

MIXED:
Burberry
• "[The capes] were somewhat confusing, considering that an intermediary passage had more big, graphic coats, with no sly sexual vibe nor any visible connection to the body. They looked as dull as ditch water, with colors — dirty camel and olive drab — to match… a crowd pleaser, if not a crowd sourcer… Burberry has to be careful that its brilliant and forward-looking embrace of the Internet does not leave too much behind." [IHT]

• "It's become the style of the younger Bailey (no relation) to make his point with multiple variations on one theme….but the bald fact remained that today we saw one helluva lot of coat and not one helluva lot of range." [Style.com]

• "While some of the silhouettes were unwieldy, and at times too retro, on the whole the collection had a sensual — and commercial — slant." [WWD]

• "There was much (much) more room in the clothes than we have seen for some time…a refreshing turnaround from the far more sexualised Burberry girl we’ve come to know recently… Bailey likes to tell a story from beginning to end and this was a particularly good one." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Burberry Collection

Christopher Kane
• "But without being a flop, it seemed a slight collection… glob liquid furnishings apparently inspired a weird fashion decoration: what looked like transparent pencil cases crossed with medical drip-feed plastic bags, and placed at the hips or necklines of little black dresses. Tons of them… whatever imaginative creation was developing this season, it seemed to be still born." [IHT]

• "Christopher Kane's latest collection was a weird, wonderful, and distinctly grown-up journey… As with last season's vinyl-coated fluoro leather lace, Kane fearlessly courts bad taste. It's a fascinating tightrope walk, but watch out, world, when he really lets the dogs out." [Style.com]

• "The collection exemplified Kane’s ability to take elements that border on bad taste and craft them into chic, modern designs with an edge." [WWD]

• "It was a hit - not unexpected from BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Kane - but still as exciting." [Vogue UK]

• "Every piece may not be as wearable as in season's past, but this collection was a step in the right direction for a designer maturing into his full potential." [Daily Front Row]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Christopher Kane Collection

Marios Schwab
• "[H]is show of streamlined leather dresses (a bit too short for modern proportions) was unique, not for its punched patterns (surely done by machine?) but for the intriguing idea that decoration need not interrupt streamlining — if the embellishment is built in." [IHT]

• "The designer comes across like one of those kids whose parents were always telling them, "You think too much."…the collection often seemed cold and distant, even when there was beading that hinted at pagan scarification… he originally made his mark with clothes that were much bolder than these, and that was one positive asset that was missing today." [Style.com]

• "Schwab reined in experimentation to explore more restrained and ladylike territory…Schwab used oxblood, teal, rust, burnt orange and caperberry to elegant effect. Meanwhile, a sculptural off-the-shoulder puffer jacket with a flouncy skirt won’t exactly work on the slopes, but will no doubt wow the après-ski crowd." [WWD]

• "It was a modern take on a ladylike look and at once felt just as bold and strong as it did tight and refined." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Marios Schwab Collection

Matthew Williamson
• "Occassional hits…But mostly the concept was an uneasy fit — until the designer’s young woman seemed to have downed a couple of vodkas and showed some party spirit… Mr. Williamson seems to find it hard to charter a new route away from hippie de luxe." [IHT]

• "It always seems like Williamson is looking for ways to wrap his soft bohemian reputation in a tougher and artier skin. While no one wants to see an Ibizan rehash, he often seems to stumble over this goal… But there was a detectable change for the better here, a streamlining, a lightness… a stylist might have found chicer shoes." [Style.com]

• "Less punchy that the past few seasons, it had a quiet confidence while being as colourful as anything we’ve seen this week." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Matthew Williamson Collection

Aquascutum
• "The show was good and strong when it showed outerwear... But what geometric patterns on flimsy tops or floating silken dresses had to do with the brand’s heritage was lost in the mist." [IHT]

• "The collection had a slouchy, loose, tacked-together quality…[Joanna Sykes] is going to have to turn down the volume. There were droop and bulk when there should have been snap and litheness." [Style.com]

• "Strong in outerwear… But there was something that didn’t quite chime about the rest… the fluid jumpsuit, burnt-orange suede dress, and silhouettes with flowing panels and fabric patchworks seemed oddly out of place." [WWD]

• "It was fresh, and very wearable… tailored jackets with matching skirts were modern and displayed a nod to Celine-esque minimalism that proved Sykes may well have what it takes." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Aquascutum Collection

Mulberry
• "The problem is that for all the glamour of a long, shiny dress sweeping in under a shearling duffel coat or a silken dress patterned with twittering birds, the imaginative handbags with bold diamond quilting kept stealing the show from a jacket and skirt in the same padded leather. But full marks for trying." [IHT]

• "[T]his may walk and quack like other runway shows, but the real stars are those new Alexas [handbags]… a more tightly edited selection than the 37 looks shown today might have had a bit more impact." [Style.com]

• "Feminine and focused, the lineup featured Sixties-inspired suits with swingy, A-line skirts and cropped jackets in tweed, chunky corduroy or quilted leather… Hill also transferred some of the hardware from the Mulberry accessories onto the clothes." [WWD]

• "[T]here was an element of louche, subversive glamour… we were charmed by Mulberry's bird print dresses and a clever play on the fox motif." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Mulberry Collection

Photo: Imaxtree

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Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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