Critics Love Deacon’s ‘Fetishistic’ Collection, Disagree on Kane’s Questionable Taste

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From left: Mulberry, Burberry Prorsum, Matthew Williamson. Photo: Imaxtree

From Giles Deacon's 'fierce and worldly' dominatrices to Aquascutum's bulky, droopy dresses, catch up on the critics' highlights and quibbles from London.

THE HITS:
Giles Deacon
• "To fine tailoring and a deep understanding of couture fabrics, Giles brought his predominantly black collection to life, with tufts of fur, surface sheen and with just the right touches of color and pattern from teal blue to Art Nouveau flowers. A subtle historical reference seemed to be woven into each piece — but it was history with a twist." [IHT]

• "Deacon delivered his most accomplished collection to date… He populated that picture with women as fierce and worldly as dominatrices…Do such creatures even exist? For perhaps the first time in Deacon's career, it just about seemed possible." [Style.com]

• "This collection marked a volte-face… Giles Deacon returned to sharply executed, intricately crafted clothing — to spectacular effect… The collection was a sophisticated example of Deacon’s ever-inventive take on design — and his clothes wouldn’t look out of place on the Paris couture." [WWD]

• "[Deacon’s] autumn/winter 2011-12 collection was seriously strong… this was a beautiful show befitting of its serious venue and it left us on a high despite being late in the very long penultimate day of womenswear shows in London." [Vogue UK]

See the Complete Fall 2011 Giles Deacon Collection

See the Complete Fall 2011 Mulberry Collection