Critics Applaud Wu’s ‘Shameless Elegance,’ Dismiss Vena Cava’s Unflattering Nineties Redux
We've coasted through the early days of Fashion Week, and the critics have both high praise and harsh critiques for the fall collections thus far. The front-row set lauded Jason Wu's glamorous, opulent dresses, as well as Peter Som's fifties-inspired frocks. Many were impressed by Christian Siriano's latest collection — though a few critics seemed reluctant to admit it. On the flip side, the reviewers largely panned Vena Cava's unflattering nineties-inspired silhouettes, and Cathy Horyn compared Richard Chai's (generally well-received) collection to "a big dirty mound of snow." Click ahead to read more of what the critics had to say.
THE HIGHS:
Jason Wu
• "It has been a while since designers have gone in for such obvious opulence, and Mr. Wu wasn’t holding back on the extravagance ... [The collection] was inspired by Robert Polidori’s book that documented the restoration of Versailles over a period of 25 years. It was that grand." [NYT/On the Runway]
• "The clothes are legitimately living up to his outsized reputation. What was noteworthy about this outing was how consistent it was, and how well his 'baroque meets sportswear' message held together from beginning to end ... a hit." [Style.com]
• "[Wu] work[ed] the evolving grandeur motif by infusing appealing flourishes into his very pretty clothes ... [He] scored big." [WWD]
• "This collection marked a return to Wu's trademark style, that of graceful urbanity and shameless elegance ... It was a collection filled with show-stoppers — a reconnecting with his signature tone." [Vogue U.K.]
• "The first two looks of Wu's show are beautiful enough to be framed ... a delicious combination of edge, tailoring, and chic to the extreme." [Fashion Week Daily]
Peter Som
• "Mr. Som had the edge in creativity ... Everything fit well, the colors popped, the attitude was chic but not old lady, and Mr. Som made his fabric choices pay." [ NYT]
• "At times, [fur] seemed to be the easy way to make something interesting, and at times it simply read as awkward. On the other hand, a mink-lined parka is beyond reproach." [Style.com]
• "This was a more polished side of Som, who upped the ante on traditional sportswear ... Keeping things from veering too au savage was the overarching ladylike feel, which had a touch of Fifties Paris." [WWD]
• "[T]hese ladies are serious about dressing ... the floral sheaths that made him famous were both charming and delightful." [Fashion Week Daily]
• "Fifties-inspired hour-glass silhouettes ... continued the all-out pretty vibe, yet there was more than just simple sweetness at play here ... unusual fabric and colour combinations were the slightly off elements that added another, interesting dimension to the collection." [Vogue U.K.]
Christian Siriano
• "All right, I’ll admit it. I liked the Christian Siriano show. And I’m not the only one ... surprisingly dark, sleek and ruffle-free. The clothes looked great and well made, in interesting shapes that were not outlandish." [NYT/On the Runway]
• "The usual OTT gowns showed up, but were slightly subdued. One massive petal-pink ball skirt was paired with a simple gray silk tee to chic effect. His point of view needs to be more finely honed ... Nevertheless, this was a step in a better direction." [Style.com]
• [T]hings are beginning to coalesce for the young designer ... Siriano shed his former penchant for ruffles and frills and focused his collection with crisp, modern sophistication ... an incredibly strong showing from a young designer who shows a lot of promise, regardless of where he initially found fame." [Vogue U.K.]
• "The flashy collection wandered without much direction, but Christian Siriano did have a few great coats and jackets" [WWD]
THE LOWS:
Vena Cava
• "The models looked like clones of that girl from the poster of the Broadway production of “Les Misérables,” only they were crying glitter ... The bulk of the collection was made up of variations on loose, high-waist trousers, often with a too-tight top that was weirdly cropped. What exactly were they trying to say here?" [NYT/On the Runway]
• "[N]o one can whip up an interesting neckline like they can ... But the cutouts proved to be somewhat tricky, and, apologies to Armani et al., but those early-nineties silhouettes don't look all that flattering to contemporary eyes." [Style.com]
• "Nineties nostalgia ... was all over the runway at Vena Cava. All of it had Vena Cava’s signature earthy-edgy spirit, but some of the separates suffered from unflattering fits." [WWD]
• "Although we're not convinced women will retire their skinnies in favour of pants roomy enough for two anytime soon, Vena Cava offered a wonderfully fresh take on "Working Girl" style for modern 9-to-5ers." [Vogue U.K.]
MIXED:
Ruffian
• "[W]hy were the clothes neither impeccable (as you might expect from a formal theme) nor completely punk? ... the styling was in bad taste. If the designers were playing a game, the effort was wasted. And some of the fabrics, especially silver and black lace, looked borderline cheesy, while the pleating and design level of the dresses seemed aimed at an unsophisticated teenager." [NYT]
• "Elongated blazers ... looked sharp, as did the oversize Prince of Wales check on a trim skirtsuit. And the way the designers turned a bib-front shirt into a panne velvet shirtdress was clever ... the feminine elements, especially an ivory silk ruffle coat, were decidedly de trop." [Style.com]
• "The feminine half of the show was poised for a good time in girlish dresses with swingy fringe skirts, but the mannish looks were stiff as a board in square silhouettes." [WWD]
• "The masculin/feminin thing that [they] do so beautifully feels especially right this season ... Moody as can be and full of POV (that's point of view, loves), la vie en Ruffian has never looked better." [Fashion Week Daily]
Richard Chai Love
• "[The collection] soon made me think of a big dirty mound of snow I wished someone would clear. Handsome though some things were, I fear they won’t look like much on the racks next fall." [NYT]
• "At its best, today's collection seemed to strike a great balance ... If there was a quibble, it was that some of this felt familiar ... it would be interesting to see him push further into unexpected directions." [Style.com]
• "And, oh, what a coat — make that coats. Chai sent out a major men’s wear statement with a parade of terrifically tailored outerwear ... It all felt modern, fresh and, by show’s end with the spangly pailette embroideries and shots of garden florals, rather charmingly elegant, too." [WWD]
• "How does one inject a jolt of pedigree into a label that is lauded for its universally contemporary reputation? Chai managed to do just that ... Richard Chai's girl is longing to take the plunge into adulthood." [Vogue U.K.]
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