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Critics Covet Wang’s Mink Shades, Pass on Tam’s ‘Weighed Down’ Frocks

From left: Altuzarra, Derek Lam, Vivienne Tam

The runway reviews continue to roll in, and today's are largely glowing. The critics were impressed by retail-savvy puffy jackets and ponchos at both Altuzarra and Alexander Wang. Preen took a widely admired crafty turn with knits and vibrant geometric prints, while Derek Lam's finale of Grecian gowns wowed. On the flip side, Vivienne Tam's Orient-inspired collection felt overwrought for some. Click ahead for the latest reviews.

• "[T]his was a 180 from the daring cone-busted sheaths and hyper-precise tailoring of his last collection. And his interest in coats—there was one great example after another—will make him very popular with retailers. Girls are going to be thinking quite hard indeed about how to get these clothes into their closets." []

• "It wasn’t his most exciting, but it may relate easily to how young women like to dress…it’s not exactly new. But it’s certainly accessible to a lot of people." [On the Runway/NYT]

• "There may have been more than a hint of John Galliano’s louche elegance in Mr. Altuzarra’s work but he hit all the right notes with the tough sexiness of a raincoat flung over a flimsy dress." [IHT]

• "Joseph Altuzarra is all about shedding last season’s skin to reveal something altogether new and unexpected - and this season, with a collection skillfully fusing high and low, masculine and feminine, the young designer well and truly shined… The flawlessly executed vision was a real return to form." [Vogue UK]

• "Altuzarra came elegantly undone — without losing any of that serious street cred. It made for a spectacular collection, ultrasophisticated yet edgy and cool… There were plenty of wonderfully wearable clothes to boot." [WWD]

See Altuzarra's Complete Fall 2011 Collection

Alexander Wang
• "[Wang] is somehow better at retail than he is on the runway. He will pluck from all those black taffeta ponchos and scuba knits and tough-girl leather, and by some miracle make them a hot retail commodity. And you’ll forget the rest… this collection worked." [NYT]

• "Wang made a triumphant return to form that injected the sexy, tough, cool-girl attitude he's built his brand on with a heightened sense of luxury. All the lush, cocoon-y outerwear was clever, not clownish or immature…You could simultaneously get the jokey comment on the current fur mania with his mink-wrapped sunglasses and boudoir bobbles on high-shine metallic loafers while still thinking it all looked pretty great." []

• "He took his production to a new level…which read more powerhouse and polished than party. Fall was Wang at his most laser-focused, mature and construction-savvy yet." [WWD]

• "...A skewered elegance, done with a touch of irony and a lot of energy…The parka-poncho hybrid, creating aviator tailcoats, might have seemed like too much on one note, except for Mr. Wang’s exotic use of fabrics… a fast, strong show." [IHT]

• "He definitely rose to the occasion and made a forceful statement reminding the spectators of his reigning title of purveyor of cool…[The collection] hit a winning high-low balance--a repertoire Wang has carved out as a comfortable niche." [Vogue UK]

• "[He took] this winter's pervasive urban snow bunny to a whole new level. [Jackets and ponchos were] cool to the extreme… Sunglasses with mink goggle straps were the ultimate nudge to the affluent and will no doubt be an ultimate fall accessory." [Fashion Wire Daily]

• "[Wang] has effectively, and consistently, captured what his twentysomething Generation Y (or whatever) wants to wear right this minute… An overall emphasis on luxury (hence the fur and the formalwear) is especially timely." [Daily Front Row]

See Alexander Wang's Complete Fall 2011 Collection

Derek Lam
• "Sparkling…not a bad way to start the day. Mr. Lam showed classic sportswear shapes and fabrics in fresh ways. The show was a pleasure to watch." [On the Runway/NYT]

• "[T]here's little arguing that the designer has found his groove… Lam gives you a reason to add another peacoat to your closet… Same goes for his jumpsuits…The off-kilter combinations only added to the gowns' appealing ease." []

• "Pops of bright red — underneath a coat collar or the sleeves on a moto jacket, for example— punched up the appealing if mostly safe collection. But by show’s end, Lam let loose with a series of Grecian flyaway dresses." [WWD]

See Derek Lam's Complete Fall 2011 Collection

• "[The designers] combined fabrics in a way I haven’t seen anyplace else. Plus the show was darn good…[M]any of the outfits were actually two or three pieces designed to look as if they were one." [On the Runway/NYT]

• "[The] stellar show push[ed] their sharp fusions of constructed menswear tailoring with fluid womenswear elements—often all in a one-piece look—into even more exquisitely wrought territory… You have to marvel at the fact that these slightly confounding, Frankenstein dresses (disparate tops and bottoms, fronts and backs, miniskirts atop midi skirts) read in such an undeniably sophisticated way." []

• "[The collection] bordered on the austere… but with vibrant pops of color, abstract geometric prints and embellished accents that jingled as the models walked by, it had a touch of chic." [WWD]

• "Spot on… Preen introduced knitwear and art-and-crafty embellishment into their collection, but in the most intriguingly effective way… The effect was particularly pragmatic and modern - the sort of deceptively complex one-piece a woman-on-the-go could throw on, but appear to have labored over." [Vogue UK]

See Preen's Complete Fall 2011 Collection

Vivienne Tam
• "[P]ert tweed coats [and] cabled knits looked more like familiar country wear than Forbidden City and mini dresses [were] weighed down with intricate dragon embellishment." [IHT]

• "[T]he cocktail and eveningwear suffered from overembellishment…A velvet tunic dress had fringe, an ornate cutout collar, and a multihued print. The print on its own might have been fine, but it got lost in the noise…[A] lighter touch overall could have gone a long way." []

• "...An intentionally bold Oriental-meets-occidental collection for the season ahead." [Vogue UK]

See Vivienne Tam's Complete Fall 2011 Collection

Photo: Imaxtree

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Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.


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