There are a few components vital to a Marc Jacobs show that everyone likes to analyze intently. First is the set. Designed by Stefan Beckman, this season's looked like a French boudoir, with padded columns lit pink, mirrored floors, and violin music in the background. When the show began, the columns turned a bright and shiny white.
Next, you need celebrities. This year's front-row set included Martha Stewart; Josh Duhamel and his wife, Fergie; Leighton Meester; and one of the designer's muses and best friends, Sofia Coppola (who looked amazing in a maroon, short-sleeve knit sweater, slim black pants, and the Louis Vuitton shoes she designed herself in a collaboration with Jacobs). It was not the usual big parade of stars, but Jacobs was competing with the Grammys and the BAFTAs. Then there is the music: Marilyn Manson's "The Beautiful People" blared on repeat as the models stomped down the runway and Josh Duhamel bobbed his head and sang along enthusiastically.
Finally, it's time to look at the clothes. The models wore shiny, heavy boots with minimal makeup and super-sleek, straight ponytails. Sex (or sex clothes) is obviously on Jacobs's brain, at least according to his shoes: cordovan sex brogue, snuff suede snow boot, and snuff suede galosh. Jacobs played with fabrics he made rubber look like sequins, sequins look like fur, and so forth. The clothes were body-conscious and ladylike (most of the pencil skirts went well past the knees) but retained the twisted glamour we've come to expect from Jacobs. Everything was tight and stiff, a far cry from last season's loose and flowing dresses. This Marc Jacobs woman, like many before her, is not sexy in an obvious or vulgar way; her clothes are tight, but they don't reveal much skin. It'll take time to process this show, but we're already dreaming about owning wide-legged polka-dot trousers made from thick, heavy navy wool, and amazing peplum jackets.