Critics Praise Prabal Gurung’s Risky Gowns, Lust After Wes Gordon’s Coats
The critics were largely pleased with the latest shows, from Prabal Gurung's romantic riff on Great Expectations to Doo.Ri's moody — though hit-and-miss — gowns. Read on for the highlights.
THE HITS:
Prabal Gurung
• "
delightful
a current of eccentricity, that infused Gurung’s polished lady fare with a newfound youth and modernity
a collection filled with personality. And if once or twice he went too far, overall, it was a pleasure to view such distinctive, pretty clothes." [WWD]
• "[T]oday's reference point — Great Expectations' tragically faded Miss Havisham — was an unexpected and potentially risky choice…If the zipper embellishments … erred on the gimmicky side, Gurung captured the disintegration that was central to Miss Havisham's character in a more believable way with dégradé furs ... [H]e deserves points for flaring trousers with an ultra-flattering fit. [Style.com]
• "Gurung's showing today marked a return to beguiling eveningwear, after last season's foray into spirited sportswear. It also proved the point that good designers can create beauty from the most tragic of inspirations…[a] sexual and alluring collection." [Vogue U.K.]
Wes Gordon
• "This tableau hit a balance — between young and old, luxe and everyday — that Gordon's clothing does, as well … Everyone needs a statement coat, and Gordon showed a wealth of toppers here … It's this kind of versatility that has made Gordon a hit." [Style.com]
• "Wes Gordon has come into his own … a modern, relevant approach." [WWD]
• "Mr. Gordon’s strength is tailoring. You can tell he has taste … His jackets have oomph: sharp shoulders, neat waists. But he struggles in the dress department when he tries to go soft." [NYT]
• " ... polished, well-priced basics for twenty and thirtysomethings … For Fall, he played with both evening and statement coats to luminous effect … If his high-waisted pants (in that perfect, early sixties silhouette that shows off all your best shoes) look as good on a size 8 as they do on those models, then Gordon is really in business." [Fashion Week Daily]
MIXED:
Doo.Ri
• "[H]er color scheme quickly shifted into monochrome-zone where oversized, chunky layers of charcoal, gray and midnight made it tricky to decipher between outerwear and ready-to-wear … While loosely cut ill-fitting pants only added to the voluminous blur, the centered piping and thick black cuffs proved a note-worthy success … it was a pleasure to see her tread some new water." [Fashion Wire Daily]
• "Doo-Ri Chung expanded beyond her deft draping skills this season…[Thigh-high boots] didn’t challenge the moody, pared-down sophistication of Chung’s collection." [Fashion Week Daily]
• "[I]n a nice change of pace, she was operating with a little more abandon … Sometimes Chung misfired, as in overlong coats and dresses, flapped at the bottom, that had the models tripping over themselves as they walked…the outerwear was outstanding … There was nothing earth-shattering about these pieces, but they had a real sense of drama." [Style.com]
• "Lines were longer and leaner than ever, and were quite strong when she didn’t drown the silhouette in excess draping or clunky fabrics, which was sometimes the case." [WWD]
• "Robes would be an apt way to describe this strong and moody collection … the word we kept coming back to while watching the show was "tactile", for this is a deceptively sensual collection that begs to be touched, tried on and lived in, day after day." [Vogue U.K.]
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