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Some Designers Had a Very Bad Fashion Week, But Haider Ackermann’s Was ‘Very Good’

Haider Ackermann, fall 2011.

As it goes with the seasons, some Fashion Weeks are good, some are bad, and some are just strange for designers (well, they're all strange, but strange in a personal way). John Galliano: bad Fashion Week! Christophe Decarnin: strange Fashion Week! And Haider Ackermann?

"It was a very bizarre fashion week, but a very good one for us," said Katou Brandsma, who represents Ackermann. "Everyone was congratulating us. We had buyers from shops, like Barneys in New York, we've been waiting for 10 years to turn up to our shows. Our designs stood out because everyone else - apart from McQueen - was so boring."

Oh? We enjoyed the seven-pound faux leather jacket at Balenciaga. And all the slashed and slitted stuff. It was also pretty great for Ackermann to be tossed into the pool of names that are front-runners to replace Galliano at Christian Dior or another LVMH label should one of the designers already in the stable get promoted and leave a vacancy.

So how did all this weirdness surrounding Galliano's firing affect the industry and the season as a whole? Most fashion people think the situation is pretty sad, and probably just as many feel perhaps more frustrated by the whirlwind of rumors about so-and-so going to this label and so-and-so going to that label. But Paris-based fashion writer Dana Thomas, who authored Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre, thought it was great for fashion.

"The intrigue, bar-room brawls and court proceedings brought a new dynamic and will have created renewed interest in fashion," she said. "The scandals gave the whole business a shot of adrenaline, including for the business side. It wasn't bad news for the French fashion industry at all."

Neither, she added, was good fortune reserved for the designers: writers were also rejoicing at having something new to report on. "It allowed fashion writers to get back to what they used to do, being proper journalists writing about fashion news rather than giving a critique of clothes as though they were talking about movies and art," Thomas said. "It had become so boring writing about clothes, which can be pretty and interesting but not the most intellectual pursuit ever known. I mean, at the end of the day a pencil skirt is just a pencil skirt."

Except a lot of what's been written about are rumors. "A source tells us" or "we hear" or those kind of items. So a good deal of it still isn't that thought-provoking, as fascinating as what happens backstage at the Katy Perry concert can be.

John Galliano scandal puts spark back into Paris fashion week [Guardian UK]

Photo: Imaxtree

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.


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