Critics Fawn Over Proenza Schouler’s Retro References; Balk at Michael Kors’s ‘Afriluxe’ Inspiration

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From left: spring looks from Proenza Schouler, Michael Kors, and Marchesa.

Critics grew tired of New York Fashion Week's ubiquitous loud, often-disjointed prints as the shows wore on, which proved unfortunate for Michael Kors and his safari-inspired collection. Proenza Schouler, on the other hand, was hailed for showing bright, bold patterns as they ought to be done. Meanwhile, Marchesa's runway show was considered a sweeping success, and Reed Krakoff is still finding his footing.

THE HITS:
Marchesa
• “[They proved] that they can design clothes that move, that sing, and that have a reason to exist beyond knocking you over the head with their technical audacity.” [NYT/On the Runway]
• “[The runway format] seemed to add a dose of reality, a welcome shift... Perhaps it's not enough to drop jaws; sometimes, simply enticing and intriguing is much chicer.” [Style.com]
• “The new format allowed the designers to display two things they haven't in the past: the three-dimensionality of the dresses, for they are just as awe-inspiring from every angle, and their fluidity… By allowing the viewers access to these new facets, they grounded their transcendental work, making them more mortal and tangible than ever before.” [Vogue UK]
• “[I]t was dazzling… The play of sheer with embroidery…was masterful… These clothes are far from subtle, but they were never intended for the faint of heart.” [WWD]

See the Complete J.Crew Spring 2012 Collection
See the Complete Michael Kors Spring 2012 Collection
See the Complete Reed Krakoff Spring 2012 Collection