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Critics Adore DVF’s Painterly Prints, Disagree on Tommy Hilfiger’s ‘Pop Prep’ Kaftans

Looks from DVF, Tommy Hilfiger, and Suno.

The critics disagreed on the success of the weekend's shows. Tommy Hilfiger's "Pop Prep" collection wowed some with its originality, while others winced at the mash-up of colors and patterns. Likewise, they disagreed on the effect of thick grosgrain straps on evening dresses at Victoria Beckham and the subdued prints at Suno. See the full report below.

THE HITS:
Diane von Furstenberg
• “[The collection] recalled Warhol paintings and Scandinavian textiles … [T]wo brown tweed dresses ... suggested that Ms. Von Furstenberg, if she had to, could make a burlap sack look good.” [On the Runway/NYT]

• “Her prints, which were legion, were positively exuberant … The variety of pattern was remarkable, if not a bit overwhelming … something-for-everyone diversity is this designer's strength.” [Style.com]

• “The collection had an evolutionary feel … The lovely thing about the designer's work is that it's as appropriate for a young, cavalier doyenne as it is for a more mature customer.” [Vogue UK]

• “In a season over run with floral prints … it was a merciful relief to attend the latest collection by Diane von Furstenberg … DVF sent out far more painterly fare, where the very erratic quirks of the designs made the whole collection looks so much more powerful.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

• “[It was] a combination of layers, textures, resourcefulness and elegance … She laced the lineup with plenty of retro glamour.” [WWD]

• “[The clothes were] so full of patterns and colors that it was hard not to be reminded of Suno … But these had the DvF look … Cheery, optimistic, fresh.” [WSJ]

See the Full Spring 2012 Diane von Furstenberg Collection.

MIXED:
Tommy Hilfiger
• “[H]is collection gets further and further from the vanilla, been-there-worn-it connotation of the Prep word … Hilfiger's runway has become a space for pieces with immediate appeal, but [the camouflage print] lacked that energy.” [Style.com]

• “The Tommy Hilfiger empire has undergone something of a revival, transforming from its street-y Nineties incarnation into a critically and commercially successful brand capitalizing on the current cult-of-preppy style … [kaftans] prov[ed] the brand has its finger on the pulse.” [Vogue UK]

• “[T]he bright hues and unusual stripes [of the rugby jerseys] rendered them all very classic with a twist … this season has marked the big return of the kaftan, [which] subverted the preppie phenomena [with] over-the-top color.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

• “There were some great pieces from Tommy Hilfiger this season ... But there were so many more ideas and colors packed in his show…that it looked as if he had tossed everything into a food processor and pressed pulse one too many times.” [On the Runway/NYT]

• “[T]his season he evolved that [preppy] ethos forward with a sophisticated and contemporary collection that avoided clichés … the show was cohesive, moving seamlessly from motifs … the clean lines, slim silhouettes and tailoring gave everything an almost European élan.” [WWD]

• “Tommy Hilfiger courted new younger customers with color, leather and kaftans … With the help of designer Peter Som, who has been consulting for Mr. Hilfiger, this isn’t the rap star Tommy you remember.” [WSJ]

See the Full Spring 2012 Tommy Hilfiger Collection.

Victoria Beckham
• “I have no idea what fresh function [the thick grosgrain and metal straps] could possibly serve, besides holding up the dress. The straps made the dresses appear less expensive than they really should, given Ms. Beckham’s taste in fabrics … Her coats, however, were gorgeous.” [On the Runway/NYT]

• “Season by season, in perfectionist fashion, she's added new elements [to her hourglass dresses] … [they are] still here, still ridiculously sexy, but now they have sturdy, buff-gray nylon straps and D-rings — even the long, evening version.” [Style.com]

• “Her designs eschew the garish and exude an introspective thoughtfulness, moderation, and an eye for luxurious detail … These were surprisingly versatile pieces which conveyed upscale sophistication and allure.” [Vogue UK]

• [The] respite from the season’s early visual frenzy looked plenty inviting … Though she sent out a few of her curvaceous standards, the news came in easy lines with a modicum of Mod, the mood rendered via structured shapes and fabrics, colorblocking, and a naughty sheer inset at the hips.” [WWD]

• “The clothes struck the right note of sexy and polished, with clean sharp lines … It was all very posh (pun intended) but not over the top.” [WSJ]

See the Full Spring 2012 Victoria Beckham Collection.

Suno
• “I’m absolutely crazy about Suno this season … The silhouettes are at once feminine and fresh, which is hard to do today … Suno now feels much more relevant.” [NYT]

• “The collection lived up to the added scrutiny … The designers showed off their expertise [in prints], and perhaps dialed back the verve just a bit … [Osterweis and Beatty] should see forward momentum continue. If anything, they could've played up the color.” [Style.com]

• “Stripping away their trademark exuberant palette was a bold move, but one that ultimately paid off … layering was relentlessly modern … There were, however, some growing pains where evening looks were concerned … the vermillion leather hot pants seemed like a red herring—quite literally. Overall though, it was a step in the right direction.” [Vogue UK]

See the Full Spring 2012 Suno Collection.

Christian Siriano
• “[Siriano] knows that a lot of women aren’t going for an Araki-inspired tie-up number. They want pizazz. Coral tulle! Sunny yellow! Mr. Siriano is their man.” [NYT]

• “Nothing groundbreaking, but nothing offensive either … The crowd ate [the flocked tulle and organza] up. It's what they were waiting for. But it didn't exactly help his case … Getting the respect that Siriano wants will require more than heeding a cool stylist.” [Style.com]

• “Christian Siriano is taking steps to ensure he is taken seriously … Although he hasn’t quite mastered the effortless subtlety and sophistication of Kors designs, his brave attempt is certainly a step in the right direction … While the collection was stylish and even quite elegant at times, there were some missteps along the way.” [Vogue UK]

See the Full Spring 2012 Christian Siriano Collection.

Photo: Imaxtree

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Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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