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Critics Fawn Over Marc Jacobs’s Flappers, Bask in Lim’s Pastel Hues

Looks from L'Wren Scott, Marc Jacobs, and Phillip Lim.

New York Fashion Week drew to a close in a flurry of fringe and flapper dresses. Read what the critics had to say about Marc Jacobs's Fosse-inspired fare, Phillip Lim's refreshing departure from prints, and L'Wren Scott's easy glamour.

THE HITS:
3.1 Phillip Lim
• “[R]efreshing, airy, and minimal — a sartorial sorbet … there was a refined sportiness … it's nice to see a different approach.” [Style.com]

• “There was an unaffected simplicity and innocence to the collection, an un-ironic view of Nineties minimalism, but with more heart.” [Vogue UK]

• “[Sherbet tones were] served with a fresh dose of minimalism, sans saccharine undertones and frilly embellishments … Sportif silhouettes also made a strong showing, playing harmoniously alongside his airy elements.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “[A] refreshing palette cleanser … The message at large seemed to be sporty minimalism, but at times Lim overcomplicated matters with cumbersome cuts and excess strips that trailed off the models like party streamers.” [WWD]

• “Lightness balanced with structure at 3.1 Phillip Lim’s beautiful Spring show… clean, modern, ladylike but not too precious… It looked fresh to the eyes.” [WSJ]

See the Full Spring 2012 3.1 Phillip Lim Collection.

MIXED:
Marc Jacobs
• “His Spring 2012 collection was all about spectacle and spangle… As usual, Jacobs' spectacle was tremendous fun, full of the kind of energy and sparkle that (dare we say it?) a couturier must master.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “This definitely wasn't one of those Marc collections that sends his fans into a tizzy about all there is to wear in their real lives, nor was it as thought-provoking as his bravura performances have been in the past … Despite all their shiny surfaces, the clothes here fell a little bit flat.” [Style.com]

• “There was a certain cocktail hour femininity to the (literally), flashy pieces, but Jacobs is far too shrewd to ever let them become simply pretty or girly … underlying all this was a sinister, angst-ridden fraudulence.” [Vogue UK]

• “There was a bit of everything in the collection, but somehow it was all pretty controlled and even rather somber. I couldn’t make out if the reference was the 1920s, or the ’30s, or the ’70s. And I suppose that was Mr. Jacobs’ intention.” [On the Runway/NYT]

• “[The show] will ignite a half a dozen new movements in the world of clothing and style…the most influential show this season … the best presentation in New York in many seasons.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

• “[S]ome of the most exciting fashion in the world … The clothes were stellar, from the obviously chic to some joyfully risky business … It all made for fabulous, if imperfect, viewing.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 Marc Jacobs Collection.

L'Wren Scott
• “Ms. Scott [started with] tart colors, and then a sharp, finishing slap of glamorous black.” [On the Runway/NYT]

• “The golden era meant a cranked-up glamour … but also a luxurious sense of ease … [U]ltimately, the result felt a bit more all over the map from look to look than the designer's usual finely tuned composition.” [Style.com]

• “[T]hese clothes were all her … Scott mixed [textured fabrics] with great ease … not necessarily a cohesive collection, but rather a wonderfully random selection of influential decades, colors, silhouettes and fabrics.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 L'Wren Scott Collection.

Photo: Imaxtree

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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