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  • 9/11/11 at 2:04 PM

Critics Laud Altuzarra’s Evolution, Criticize Prabal Gurung’s Excess

Looks from Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, and Prabal Gurung

The critics have weighed in on the latest batch of spring shows. They adored Alexander Wang's athletic-inspired looks and Altuzarra's about-face from fall to spring. Monique Lhuillier and Lacoste both harnessed some serious sex appeal. Meanwhile, Prabal Gurung's flashy collection left more than one reviewer yearning for simplicity. Click ahead for more.

THE HITS:
Alexander Wang
• "Wang's ideas yielded a whole lot of great merch…[He has a] distinct designer finesse…There was little you couldn't see hanging on a rack, walking down the street. And that's a good thing." [Style.com]

• "He really didn't mess around this season…In my view, the best thing he did were loose, semi-transparent mini dresses that seemed based on athletic jerseys." [NYT/On the Runway]

• "This was cool warrior gal chic at its best [infused] with a courtly sensibility…militant yet feminine at the same time." [Fashion Wire Daily]

• "[A]nother stellar example…Even when she's covered up, the Wang girl is showing something off…no matter how good a time Wang is having, he's still exacting." [WWD]

See the Full Alexander Wang Spring 2012 Collection.

Altuzarra
• "It was loaded with a lot of great pieces slightly suppressed under an air of toughness—padded black leather jackets, sleek white pants suits, electric surfer prints." [NYT/On the Runway]

• "He opted for evolution, not revolution ... He's been confident from the get-go. But with this collection there's a depth and complexity to the clothes to match." [Style.com]

• "[The lineup had] an easy, feminine vibe…while the clothes might seem worlds away from his grunge-centric outing for fall, Altuzarra noted that resort was, in fact, just an evolution." [WWD]

See the Full Altuzarra Spring 2012 Collection.

Monique Lhuillier
• "[T]here was a suggestive air that ran through this whole collection…suggestive and sexy without ever being vulgar or cheap." [Fashion Wire Daily]

• "An off-the-shoulder, cobalt blue cocktail dress wrapped in twisted tulle elicited actual sighs of desire from the front row…[ball gowns] were unexpected and a little daring; they would kill at a museum gala." [Style.com]

• "[S]portier-than-usual looks…Lhuillier often approached evening with more of her new ease, pairing classic T-shirts with short flirty skirts." [WWD]

See the Full Monique Lhuillier Spring 2012 Collection.

THE MISSES:
Prabal Gurung
• "It was more than a lot to take in…Gurung gets a cheer for his ambition this time around, but a bit more simplicity wouldn't have been such a bad thing." [Style.com]

• "[T]here was a lot going on in Prabal Gurung's spring collection…he struggled to put [his many ideas] together at times…the prints worked well on the lineup's simpler shapes, yet at times were mired in excess details." [WWD]

• "Prabal Gurung sexed it up…heels [were] suitable for tarts and transparent cut outs transformed his signature elegant dresses into evening wear for the daring." [WSJ]

• "It was a flashy look for Mr. Gurung, but one that seemed to go over well in the front row." [NYT/On the Runway]

See the Full Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 Collection.

MIXED:
Lacoste
• "Felipe Oliveira Baptista had a nice debut…I can't say the Lacoste collection was a shocking change from one designer to the next, but that's probably because the label's brand identity is so well established." [NYT/On the Runway]

• "[Felipe Oliveira Baptista] has a real instinct for the Frenchness of the brand…There was a sensual architecture at work…All in all, a promising start." [Style.com]

• "While there were plenty of terrific clothes here — and a new, almost ladylike chic direction — Lacoste may be one of those few wheels that does not need reinventing." [WWD]

• "Dressed up sportswear that yet still signaled 'Oh this?' breeziness…Look out for the [splurge-worthy] outerwear. [WSJ]

See the Full Lacoste Spring 2012 Collection.

Photo: Imaxtree

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