For years, London and Milan Fashion Week have been complaining that they don't have enough time during fashion month to have all their shows. New York tries to organize its schedule around Labor Day, and Paris being Paris gets to do whatever it wants, which leaves the middle two Fashion Weeks — London and Milan — squeezed. This season things have been particularly traumatic because Marc Jacobs moved his show to the very last time slot of New York Fashion Week — Thursday night, to make up for time lost during the hurricane — keeping models and editors from getting to London on time. Models who were optioned for the show stuck around in the event that they got cast, keeping lots of them from the first day of London Fashion Week.
But then things got worse for London when Gucci moved its show to Wednesday, the last day of London Fashion Week, and demanded that models fly to Milan over the weekend for castings and fittings. Of course, all the top models will have to go to that, because Gucci is huge exposure for them and they'll want to be considered for the label's very well-paying ad campaign. Adding to the stress of this particular Fashion Week, Katie Grand, who styles Giles Deacon's show, demanded a five-hour call time for her models, which is supposedly selfish and completely unnecessary, and kept models from working other shows near Deacon's time slot.
So London casting agents and designers are understandably frustrated with the season, having lost so many girls at the last minute to the industry's bigger, better paying designers.The Telegraph reports:
"It's not the London agent's fault. With all the big money advertising work coming from New York, Milan and Paris, London has no power. We are seen as the poor relations," said Nick Burns from Star & Co casting agency who were responsible for casting Todd Lynn and PPQ.
"We had to totally re-cast PPQ on Friday because of Marc Jacobs, and now the Gucci situation has ruined all the work we've done for Todd Lynn.
"The upshot of all this will be that models will stop coming to London all together because it's just not worth it, and any decent designers will be forced to stop showing here because they can't get good enough girls."
So who is to blame? Designers and agents are taking it out on London Fashion Week organizers, who they say willingly get bullied by New York and Milan. Well at least Tom Ford and Burberry show in London. As long as they're there you can pretty much guarantee every important fashion person will be around for however long those take. Maybe London Fashion Week should encourage those labels to bookend the week.