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Critics Love Givenchy’s ‘Pulse-Quickening’ Clothes, Offer Faint Praise for Dior

Looks from Lanvin, Givenchy, and Celine.

THE HITS:
Givenchy
• “Riccardo Tisci did a good job sticking to a sharp, sexy message. The show had a tenacious quality … Yet Mr. Tisci didn’t overplay the water-world element, nor did he get hung up on the rock of drippy romance.” [NYT]

• “[W]e're tempted to call this collection the most accessible that Tisci has ever done … Tisci is riding a wave right now.” [Style.com]

• “[The collection] screamed out take-no-prisoners hardcore Tisci attitude … [exotic skins] added a couture feel and made the clothes all the more powerful … It was fast paced and high energy.” [Vogue UK]

• “The hottest show in fashion today is without a doubt Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci … for those with the courage and style it's a brilliant aesthetic statement … this was a great fashion moment.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

• “[A]nother pulse-quickening collection, with a fashion message as sharp and penetrating as a harpoon.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 Givenchy Collection.

Balenciaga
• “Overall, the collection had more street vitality than in recent seasons … there was a strong utilitarian element in details ... There’s nothing else like [the black and white print dresses] on the runways, and they’re not complicated or solemn.” [NYT]

• “[W]hat set apart [Ghesquière’s] dip into history was the way he adapted traditionally haute constructions to the street … No one can look backward and come up with propositions we've never seen before like Ghesquière can. Amen to that.” [Style.com]

• “The thing with Balenciaga is that it’s sometimes hard to describe exactly what you’re seeing … It was graphic and futuristic at the beginning, and then softened later.” [Vogue UK]

• “[C]onceptually futuristic uniforms … Sculptural separates may have shaped the show but Ghesquière received the highest praise for his penchant for the perfect pant.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “The clothes were some of the most approachable and wearable the designer Nicolas Ghesquière has yet created.” [IHT]

• “Here was a tour de force of structure, volume and high chic …[an] inspired display of real fashion.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 Balenciaga Collection.

Lanvin
• “[W]hat Elbaz offered felt like his own pragmatic take on sportswear … [the slits] had a raw, sexy energy. In fact, this might have been the collection where Elbaz truly embraced sex… simple, timeless, and radical.” [Style.com]

• “A hardier, more masculine feel than we usually associate with [Elbaz] … we still want Lanvin every time.” [Vogue UK]

• “[A] really great collection … Above all there was this faintly malevolent mood, albeit of the most refined sort … Elbaz also has a great ability to make less seem so much more.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

• “[The collection] made a stunning impact … As ever, the remarkable Mr. Elbaz seems to get inside the female mind as well as producing wardrobe delights.” [IHT]

• “[A] stripped-down but powerful chic … It was delightfully unexpected and a well-timed way to move on.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 Lanvin Collection.

MIXED:
Celine
• “[T]he collection [Philo] offered on Sunday was a club sandwich of cleverly reworked ideas, with some others that didn’t have a particular urgency … her military-style jackets [and leather jackets] were derivative of old-school Yohji Yamamoto ... you expect more from her.” [NYT]

• “[The collection had a] luxuriously spartan sensibility: no prints, no appliqués, few unnecessary extras … It was an ambitious new message from a designer who's made a virtue of "reduced" fashion.” [Style.com]

• “As ever, she seems to take the simplest ideas and then change the rules slightly … Philo's ideas are so clear, her articulation of them so direct, that you leave her shows feeling refreshed… these are all going to be winners next season.” [Vogue UK]

• “The collection of smart separates was memorable for what it did not show: There was color, but a forest green and just a splash of scarlet…There were no wild patterns … [Celine] does not seem like throwaway fashion. It suggests a far longer life.” [IHT]

• “The steady evolution of spare sportswear at Celine continues … it felt like she exercised the intellectual part of her creative brain more so than usual.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 Celine Collection.

Dior
• “[Bill Gaytten] did a nicely restrained job with Dior’s tailoring, pairing the classic bar jacket with checked or creamy gazar skirts, and cigarette pants.” [NYT]

• “The prettiness of today's Christian Dior show may have felt like a safe move, but after the beating Bill Gaytten and his team took following a misjudged Couture collection, who can blame them?” [Style.com]

• “[The collection] went down rather better than we thought it might… It played very, very safe … it was Fifties glamour unsullied by bad behaviour - or fun, in fact - and uncompromising in quality.” [Vogue UK]

• “His ready-to-wear efforts, as evidenced today, are much more successful [than his July couture show] … the kind of timeless styles that women can, and will, actually wear … very useful, artfully-constructed clothing that shoppers are sure to appreciate.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “[D]reamily romantic, expertly draped, and classily finished … This an impressive at bat for Gaytten who got - in our view, an unfair critical mauling back in July in his debut Dior couture show.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

• “[A] light-handed and delicate touch … a youthful, but classic, couture attitude … this was a pleasing outing." [IHT]

• “[C]ommercial clothes … Perhaps they lacked the gusto of his predecessor’s, but they offered a modification that telegraphed Dior without getting extreme … Was it the spectacular fashion statement one has come to expect from Dior? No.” [WWD]

See the Full Spring 2012 Christian Dior Collection.

Photo: Imaxtree

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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