Critics Laud Jason Wu's 'Fierce' Chinese Looks, Squint at Alexander Wang

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THE HITS:

Jason Wu

• "Mr. Wu was completely at home in his retelling of Shanghai Lily...This show worked because he recognized an opportunity to exaggerate the motifs, even parody them, rather than merely borrow a bit of Chinese texture." [NYT]

• "[H]is most confident [show] to date...But if [the lace evening dresses] will be too costumey for Wu's crowd, there was plenty of that reliably strong sportswear to march away with." [Style.com]

• "[F]ierce in many ways...It was a startling change for Wu, but impressive, and showed off both his range as a designer and his technical abilities...an exciting about-face." [Vogue UK]

• "Jason Wu has proved once again that his golden boy status was no fluke...We expected heaven, and he delivered." [Fashion Week Daily]

• "[T]ackling Asia was a risk...Wu handled all [archetypes] with calculated polish and savvy commerciality...costume-y flourishes were intentional...this was Wu’s most severe and sophisticated work yet." [WWD]

• "[I]t was Wu’s most dramatic runway show to date – and if you looked closely, his most dramatic collection as well...Wu’s woman has gotten way stronger." [WSJ]

See the Full Fall 2012 Jason Wu Collection.

MIXED:

Alexander Wang

• "The silhouette looked lean and sharp, and with the aid of the press notes, I could sense that the fabrics and knits were lacquered and bonded... I mean, I think so. The details were virtually lost." [NYT/On the Runway]

• "Alexander Wang's fall collection was terrific — we think...The clothes were tough to see clearly...his most defined and daring [graphic sillhouettes] yet." [WWD]

• "[H]is most luxurious-feeling collection to date...His designs exuded a new precision, as well as a new, expensive polish...Wang has been shrinking from his so-called downtown reputation." [Style.com]

• "[A] distinct movement away from his more louche, languid inclinations...[a puffer coat and vest] nondescript but commercial...for those who may have found this collection a bit too unyielding, [tangled thread shirts] had a more feminine appeal." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Alexander Wang Collection.

Peter Som

• "Mr. Som also threw in Katharine Hepburn, but it couldn’t save this mushy collection of peplums and sheer-hem pencil skirts, with the odd tuxedo shirt and pair of jodhpurs." [NYT]

• "[I]t was a very different offering...No doubt there were elements here that many recognized from other recent runways, but the well-executed shift in emphasis seemed to elicit raves...It was certainly an unexpected move for Som to side with mean and clean." [Style.com]

• "It was peplums, peplums and more peplums...Som relied on a palette of bottle green, burgundy, muddy brown (which sometimes was a little too sludgy), with flashes of neon pink." [Vogue UK]

• "[The collection] explored the precarious balancing act of smoldering femininity and masculine garb...All in all? You'll want Som. Just trust." [Fashion Week Daily]

• "[H]e downplayed the eclectic styling while turning his keen eye on color, which was a beautiful progression...[The silhouette] was strongest on short jackets but at times veered into over-exaggeration." [WWD]

See the Full Fall 2012 Peter Som Collection.

Richard Chai Love

• "If the sooty-stripe blazers and full skirts that Richard Chai showed looked a little down in the dumps, it was at least a familiar gloominess...The collection, then, perked you up right away." [NYT]

• "[T]he collection's biggest impact was a great-looking navy and charcoal striped tweed...It fell prey to awkward proportions in the suit that was the first look out, but was a smart and polished winner in nearly every other iteration." [Style.com]

• "Color-lovers beware; minimalists rejoice...The practicality of the collection was kept in check...Even the hiker extraordinaire needs a few dressier looks for evening." [Fashion Week Daily]

• "[A]n appealing, wearable mix suited for an urban customer...The outerwear was strong." [WWD]

See the Full Fall 2012 Richard Chai Love Collection.