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Critics Praise Beckham’s Alluring Body-Con Dresses, Scold Prabal for Pilfering

THE HITS:

Victoria Beckham

•  "Victoria Beckham was in perfect lock step on Sunday: the militantly sleek dress for the woman on the go, the little black bootee with a sock stuffed in it, the new bossy bag. This was a runway show as a drill, complete with a marching beat." [NYT]

•  "[An] excellent show ... the dresses' appealing, everyday ease felt of a piece with Beckham's elegant, sophisticated signature." [Style.com]

•  "[The collection] had a luxe sense of pragmatism ... Beckham has displayed a knack for editing. Her work never feels overwrought or flashy and she seems to know when something slight will elevate a piece from mundane to engaging." [Vogue UK]

•  "[D]espite Beckham’s claims of versatility, the alluring lineup seemed best suited to bodies similar to her own ... As impressive as the clothes was Beckham’s savvy, forward-thinking approach to her show." [WWD]

See the Full Fall 2012 Victoria Beckham Collection.

MIXED:

Prabal Gurung

•  "Prabal Gurung has a lot of talent up his sleeve. But which one? ... He has a similar problem this season with textures and prints. And he styles up his feline prettiness to being within a whisker of a Givenchy show. He ought to give himself the challenge of working with less." [NYT]

•  "[A] fine passage had tailored clothes glowing like blue-green oil spills, with foil-printed Neoprene panels. They gave an otherworldly effect to the simple styles and shone out in the collection." [IHT]

•  "[The show] wasn't without pitfalls. Once he'd added ruffles and sheer insets and bug jewelry, it started to feel like way too much sugar for a dime (not to mention a bit too Tisci-tinged)." [Style.com]

•  "These looks had a meticulous severity, and also exhibited his dexterity as a designer ... some incredible eveningwear." [Vogue UK]

•  "It exhibited further movement away from the ladyfied looks that got him noticed in the first place while crystallizing a provocative yet pretty tone ... There was, however, another, less admirable level of risk on view ... Gurung has veered toward too-obvious pilfering before; he should stop before it becomes a habit." [WWD]

•  "[T]he designer struck a brisker, more confident stride for fall ... Rich, ostentatious, and designed to within an inch of its life, Gurung’s collection is destined for couture customers." [WSJ]

See the Full Fall 2012 Prabal Gurung Collection.

Altuzarra

•  "Joseph Altuzarra's tough coats (in all kinds of classic materials) worn with blousy cargo pants tucked into tight, over-the-knee black boots worked ... his overriding interest was to create a strong, fresh look." [NYT]

•  "The concept of tailoring, often with military gilded buttons, laced with the ethnic (and even a horse’s head pattern) made for a collection that would have seemed stronger if it had been tightly edited." [IHT]

•  "He's had hits before, but none of them have been quite as ambitious or as all-around successful as this...It's not everybody in New York who can riff on their own work and still find something new to articulate." [Style.com]

•  "[T]here was a sweeping romanticism and exoticism ... This was a busy collection, but it somehow remained cohesive and had a jet-setting sense of glamour ... a collection that was personal but also shone with a self-assuredness." [Vogue UK]

•  "Beautiful! The stunning collection displayed the designer’s growing range and confidence to push himself into new territory ... His outerwear was another hit." [WWD]

•  "Altuzarra turned out spectacular slouchy, swingy coats ... They looked rich and intriguing ... And the vivid patterns in those boot-cut pants were lovely — making the failures worth the risks." [WSJ]

See the Full Fall 2012 Altuzarra Collection.

Miguel Adrover

•  "There is no business model here, and he doesn’t care. It’s a pleasure to see someone do a lot with a little." [NYT]

•  "An emotional show ... the clothes were powerful for their sensibility to the churning world ... The result was a collection that was apolitical, yet throbbed with a sense of global upheaval. " [IHT]

•  "[I]t seems fair to point out that the clothes he showed tonight had a pretty familiar vocabulary, one he essentially established himself. That said, it was nice to be refreshed on it ... [The models tossing out Cuban peso notes] is the kind of thing that gives fashion people a reputation as un-deep thinkers. " [Style.com]

•  "With his strong collection, Adrover proved he hasn’t lost his thoughtful irreverence...It wasn’t exactly commercial, but still made for a beautiful, intense viewing experience." [WWD]

See the Full Fall 2012 Miguel Adrover Collection.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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