Critics Praise Proenza Schouler’s Daring Show, Differ on Ralph Lauren



Proenza Schouler

• "The silhouette at Proenza Schouler was more extreme: a boxy jacket in white piqué with an asymmetrical front worn with wide-leg trousers. It was a cool look, hinting of a Japanese influence." [NYT]

•  "This was a daring show, in which they proposed new silhouettes ... [leather weaving] was astounding ... The remarkable thing about the show was its evolution ... Their confidence is persuasive, and so is their skill." []

•  "[A] powerful sportswear statement ... [The separates] were challenging as well, those voluminous proportions not for the faint of heart ... What could not be overstated were the extraordinary fabrics ... Seeing clothes so polished and expensive-looking still convey a street attitude is what made it so fabulous." [WWD]

•  "[McCollough and Hernandez] built a truly engrossing and detailed collection — one that is sure to be considered a benchmark of the season...they are no flash in the pan mavericks, but a perfectly matched pair seeking to create a singular vision of fresh originality." [Vogue UK]

•  "New wave karate kid at its best! [A]ll earning the Proenza boys a black belt with the editorial set." [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Proenza Schouler Collection.

Calvin Klein

•  "The collection was essentially about the hourglass shape, done gracefully ... But in the end, as beautiful as his clothes were, they didn’t give you much more than a sense of control ... [A skirt and a dress made in wide panels] were compelling." [NYT]

•  "[A] strong collection that keyed into the season's new, bigger volumes ... [E]ven without the game of peekaboo, these otherwise modest silhouettes looked sexy. That was Costa's real accomplishment today." []

•  "[A] bravura display of technical skill, path-breaking draping and advanced fabrics ... [the collection imparted] the notion that radically simplified forms are often the most beautiful...the finest expression of modern minimalism with a subtle historic twist that we've seen in many seasons. Yes, that good." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  "[A] robust collection, in terms of fabric and silhouette ... an expected minimalist effort from the impenetrably consistent Costa." [Vogue UK]

•   " [A]ppealing clothes in ultrafeminine silhouettes ... His use of thick wools resulted in several great coats, but a few of the dresses in similar fabrics looked heavy ... The overall effect was indeed powerful, but the reality of the clothes had a softer side." [Vogue UK]

•   "[T]hese are clothes to think about ... Costa's fabric research, always impressive, paid off big-time  ... [The last three noir dresses] made the strongest statement about the new look of luxury. Opulent? Not a bit." [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Calvin Klein Collection.

L'Wren Scott

•  "[L'Wren Scott] has loosened up ... there is a satisfying eclectic mix ... There was more variety in her prints, and she had lovely velvets ... But the collection’s real merit was in its confident use of color as a medium." [NYT]

•  "The clothes seemed rich ... She's come a very long way from making a few fab body-hugging dresses and jeans that make your legs look a mile long ... The trick now will be to maintain her distinct point of view. So far, so good." []

•  "Her very rich collection delivered it all — even caviar, which, she playfully noted, was served for lunch to correspond with her newest dresses with caviar beading." [WWD]

•  "The clothes had a distinctly vintage flavour with velvets, capes, furs and rich-hued silks...The designer turned out a strong collection of wearable, elegant dresses." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 L'Wren Scott Collection.


Ralph Lauren

•  "You mean Downton Abbey isn’t Ralph Lauren's ancestral home? He does the look so well ... Oh, Mr. Lauren, you do amaze as you entertain — you are an exceedingly good fashion designer ... [The dark plain clothes] are worth putting on a shopping list." [NYT]

•  "[T]his felt like Lauren revisiting and reworking his own oeuvre ... The trip down memory lane wasn't one of the designer's blockbusters, but it produced some strong outerwear ... the evening looks as a whole felt modern." []

•  "[A] smoothly elegant collection ... Much of the tailoring was very masculine and all the better for it...Lauren also injected some smartly done edge...[But] the whole collection came across as a tad too restrained. The models did look particularly poised and coiffed and hyper elegant, but there was little feeling of new." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  "In a season of major fabric awareness, his combinations felt natural and uncontrived ... While the styling played to the Downton nattiness, the pieces were utterly versatile...curve-hugging dresses and gowns [embodied a] glorious combination of elegant and sexy." [WWD]

•  "Well cut and draped cashmere double-breasted overcoats were elegant and a number of fitted checked trouser suits struck a chord ... [A] stunning Art Deco gold gown swaggered rather than flowed because of its weight." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Ralph Lauren Collection.