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Kors and Rodriguez Wow Critics While Rodarte Gets Mixed Reviews

THE HITS:

Michael Kors

•  "[A] brilliant fashion dissertation on hyper chic American sportswear ... An ode to sophisticated eye-catching style...his sense of cut and self-assured taste are all so in the zone that he makes everything look fresh, and charmingly new ... a bases loaded fashion home run." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  "Buried in the snowstorm were some great charcoal plaid or tweed dresses with black leather sleeves, as well as a black leather blouse shown with cropped black wool pants." [NYT]

•  "His trick, as always, was to filter it all through his glamorous yet practical lens ... Daywear was all about the unexpected mix ... high evening was highly polished ... [For menswear,] he might have done better by skipping the man-furs and a tartan crombie." [Style.com]

•  "[A] terrific show ... Kors has been happy to give his ladies what they love: glamorous, sporty clothes that are sexy and practical." [WWD]

•  "[A] solid collection of luxuriant fur, woollen coats and plaid ... Womenswear had an equally off-duty feeling ... There were plenty of glam moments too." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Michael Kors Collection.

Narciso Rodriguez

•  "[A] superb show ... Mr. Rodriguez made everything look modern and effortless, from the new volumes in wool coats to the puzzle effects on dresses and tops ... With high-heeled ankle boots, [the bias-cut evening skirts] were like liquor to red-carpet candy." [NYT]

•  "This ability to make the complex appear simple made for a workable wardrobe ... [the collage top and fishtail skirt] proved that he was pushing his signature aesthetic in an effective way." [IHT]

•  "The show's color palette was moody and gorgeous...Coats had bell-like volumes, less successfully, falling in A-line tent shapes. Things weren't quite so mathematical on a good deal of the ready-to-wear ... [T]he trousers had a sporty yet polished ease." [Style.com]

•  "There was indeed a lot to ponder in the lineup, most of it great. Rodriguez played up his strong construction skills, layering together different colors and fabrics ... The techniques could have looked awkward, but Rodriguez executed them exquisitely." [WWD]

•  "[T]he designer is often able to wring a substantial amount of intrigue from somewhat limited means.. there wasn't an uptight rigidity to the designs. Narciso's work is also incredibly cerebral ... Masterful technique elevates his collections into lessons in how to create collections that are unencumbered with the past." [Vogue UK]

•  "Clean lines, grown-up colors, and quietly intricate constructions." [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Narciso Rodriguez Collection.

MIXED:

Rodarte

•  "The clothes convey the klutzy, tenderhearted beauty that they like ...With this collection, sophisticated and varied, the Mulleavys have worked out a few more kinks ... so far, nothing has matched Rodarte’s [leather] pieces in technique and simplicity of design." [NYT]

•  "[T]his collection in shades of beige and rust seemed subdued...The craft work was condensed into dowdy dresses with dolman sleeves ... [W]here was the underlying tension? ... the show lacked vigor." [IHT]

•  "This time around, they got the art and commerce balance right ... Tailored coats and jackets worked too...The finale evening gowns with their cave-painting handprints were as unconventional as ever. Same goes for their new shoe collection." [Style.com]

•  "The designers followed a savvy arc that indulged the misty-eyed sentimentality that fuels their creative intelligence while making an effort to feed the commercial end of a business, albeit a very niche one ... That tension between somber, old-world femininity and modern moodiness was pitch perfect in the Victorian-inspired gowns." [WWD]

•  "The past two seasons have shown that the Mulleavys are striving to add commercial appeal to their earlier collections...This season was surely their most retail-friendly venture yet ... It seems that [the Mulleavys] are looking to build a more grounded business without losing their quirky charms. This collection suggests that they're heading in a good direction." [Vogue UK]

•  "[A] cinematic collection built off of a rust and azure blue color palette ... The highlights: Tailored black and white shearling coats and Outback booties with sand-filled heels." [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Rodarte Collection.

Oscar de la Renta

•  "Mr. de la Renta’s bijoux-print mini-dresses and skirts strained in their attempt to be young ... On the plus side, the collection was loaded with sporty separates ... But he overused the brooch idea, which was already sketchy, and the pink and blue was in too much sweet abundance, like a runway of cotton candy." [NYT]

•  "Oscar de la Renta made a pitch for a new generation of cute uptown girls ... And good Lord! They smiled! ... The technique of blobs of bling, as introduced originally at MiuMiu, looked highly sophisticated." [IHT]

•  "[T]he epitome of polished, tony panache...so witty and quirky is his take on refinement, so self-confident his experimentation with texture and print...a truly accomplished collection and show." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  "The clothes seemed pitched at a new generation...the photo prints of jewels that gave this show its irreverent streak...Don't get us wrong; these clothes were still plenty precious—as is the de la Renta way." [Style.com]

•  "No girlie cliché went unchecked ... the pretty excess of Oscar de la Renta’s fall collection was without limits ... party frocks fit for princesses of all ages ... Apparently, Oscar’s delightful bubble doesn’t burst." [WWD]

•  "[De la Renta made] a convincing case for a return bygone dress codes ... an exhaustive and comprehensive collection ... [I]t felt young, but it wasn't cheap. These were day clothes at their best — preppy but with a sense of carefree opulence; something that feels young, but not in a sloppy way." [Vogue UK]

•  "[S]accharine, jewel-encrusted frocks and puffy princess tulle ball gowns reigned supreme ... For the younger set, Oscar offered up blue sixities-ish minis, bedazzled tops with high-waisted skirts, and a plethora of party dresses." [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Oscar de la Renta Collection.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2013, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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