Critics Love Lanvin’s ‘Suh-weet’ Party Clothes, Horyn Pans Haider Ackermann

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From left: Haider Ackermann, Comme des Garcons, and Lanvin; Imaxtree

THE HITS:

Comme des Garçons

•   "Ms. Kawakubo is the only designer who thinks like an artist ... Her latest collection seemed to turn couture, and the fashion world’s obsession with iconic shapes and structure, on its ear ... Strikingly, these designs are extraordinarily simple ... not to suggest that anyone can do them (you would need her patternmakers) but rather that anyone can understand them." [NYT]

•  "[The show] was a telling reminder of why Comme des Garçons and its designer Rei Kawakubo have achieved such cult status. [Kawakubo's vision] is fashion at its most lovingly distilled ... Call it fashion for the purists." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  "[T]his show was breathtaking in its boldness and vivacity and was cheered to the echo ... Ms. Kawakubo was in a class of her own. The two elements, shape and color, were played to the max." [IHT]

•   "Rei Kawakubo chose this particular moment to present a show that glorified the flat ... If it had been a Dada performance in Zurich's Cabaret Voltaire in the second decade of the twentieth century, its genius would have been galvanic. As a fashion show in the second decade of the twenty-first century, its satire felt a little obvious. But its savage point was well taken." [Style.com]

•   "It was fabulous ... Kawakubo did indeed focus on two often-challenging dimensions: those of major volume and color. She had her radical way with both, and everyone left smiling. Wow, indeed." [WWD]

•  "They were stiff and they were bold — a minimalist yet equally flamboyant sensibility ... all the elements you would usually associate with being loud and cluttered [were] somehow reduced to something simple, even when exaggerated and accentuated shapes came into the equation. But that’s Kawakubo’s speciality." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Comme des Garçons Collection.

Lanvin

•  "The clothes captured that [party] spirit ... one of [Elbaz's] best Lanvin shows in a while ... The collection caught many of the trends, but with a devil-may-care attitude that turned the most decked-out looks into a kind of gantlet." [NYT]

•   "[A] tigerish display of protective seduction ... Elbaz took his evocative style somewhere new ... for this decade-anniversary he gave the clothes a notably tougher finish." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•   "[T]hese outfits were suh-weet in their body-enhancing shape; their intense, delicious color; their feeling of wayward fun ... Underneath all the dazzle, he gives you depth and a hint of darkness." [Style.com]

•  "[T]he clothes were beautiful, bold and at times, riotously fanciful. And always, they made sense ... It all made for a wonderful, frenetic romp — one that should continue to the selling floor." [WWD]

•  "It was a technicolour Lanvin dream ... And then we got a bit glitzy and glamorous ... Party dresses were suitably pretty special with double skirts of pouf and puff ... More jewels garnished more necks and elbow-length gloves gave a sense of elegant nonchalance." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Lanvin Collection.

MIXED:

Haider Ackermann

•  "His dramatic compositions [impress editors] like a stun gun. They’re knocked senseless. They forget that this stuff has been around the track before: in the diva years of Gianfranco Ferré, for one ... [Ackermann] feeds into the worst values and assumptions of the industry, which almost always finds a way to confuse effect for fashion. Mr. Ackermann is all effect." [NYT]

•  "Something of a fashion triumph was achieved ... The clothes he presented today, while dripping in drama, were entirely comprehensible and clearly far more commercial." [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  "The waisted silhouettes that were the results of all that draping were the best he's ever done — a spot-on mixture of the sublime and the salable, and he's got the most sophisticated color sense of anyone in Paris ... You can add this to the short list of shows this season that brought the crowd to its feet." [Style.com]

•  "Extraordinary! Haider Ackermann continued on his trajectory of awe. His show captivated with beauty as it intrigued, on one level with a moody aura, and on another, with extreme complications of cut (surely a pattern maker’s nightmare). The combination made for a fashion lover’s delight." [WWD]

•  "[A] typically strong and sensual offering ... Yet for all its strength, it was a quiet and paced show — a leisurely finale to show that he is working to his own agenda and his own woman." [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Haider Ackermann Collection.

Celine

•  "It felt incomplete, or maybe it was just a taste of things, and I thought the oversized fit seemed just a little off. Still, she can make a cool statement." [NYT/On the Runway]

•   "[Philo] took feminist fashion a step forward ... The designer did not make her clothes strict and masculine. That smash-the-glass-ceiling, dress-like-the-men era is so definitely over ... The effect was of a purposeful woman, wearing useful, easy-to-move-in clothes, but nothing that announced her as a female of the species." [IHT]

•  "[Zippers] gave a literal edge to the clothes ... All of which pointed to a punky zest ... The coats were the collection's headliner — there was wickedness in the one that spun to reveal a furry tail of red ... There was silhouette action here." [Style.com]

•  "Philo amped up the silhouette of her famous sporty luxe ... [S]he grounded her proposals in complete reality — tony clothes for everyday life ... The best of it bore the chic simplicity befitting fashion’s current minimalist queen ... It’s hard to imagine whom Philo had in mind with her colorblocks. Most likely, they were a one-season snafu." [WWD]

•  "[I]t all felt very special ... Ultra-modern and exciting with the unexpected beautiful colour palette to match, if you're going to do this look, it has to be done well — and in the hands of Philo it always is. There's a fashion trust you can rely on." [Vogue UK]

See the full Fall 2012 Celine collection.