After seasons of neon hues, peplums, and other eighties' vestiges, the nineties have been steadily making their return. For spring, the look is a bit more calculated, with artfully mussed hair offset by a dose of plaid. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the brand's signature tie-front skirts gave the illusion of a flannel tied at the hips and were paired with tough creeperlike sandals. In London, Henry Holland threw a checked slip dress over similarly patterned trousers and finished off the look with metallic boots. And today at Dries van Noten, it was grunge gone luxe — think plaid layered with diaphanous chiffon and matching pumps.