It's not too difficult to imagine a time when the names Phoebe Philo, Roland Mouret, Haider Ackermann, Olivier Theyskens, and even Raf Simons weren't included in the global fashion glossary; by Phaidon Press's account, it was 2005. Then, the publisher asked ten curators (among them: Alexander McQueen, Tim Blanks, and Harriet Quick) to each choose ten designers on the brink of ubiquity. The list of 100, plus sketches, never-before-seen photos, and campaigns, was packaged as the 400-page book Sample. Today brings the release of its sequel, Pattern — a new who's who of the industry.
For the followup, Phaidon polled Yasmin Sewell; SHOWstudio; Tavi Gevinson; Jop van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers of Fantastic Man; Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen; academic Heather Sproat; Imran Amed of Business of Fashion; An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx of A.F. Vandevorst; Tim Lim, group fashion director of Modern Media in China; and stylist Keegan Singh. "They asked me to pick designers who had only been in business for about five years, so that narrowed it down," Singh told the Cut. "I based it on my taste and who I like to shoot editorially ... It was a back-and-forth process because other curators had picked some of my designers, so then I'd have to pick somebody new." Singh's final selections included Fashion Week players (Cushnie et Ochs and Olivier Rousteing), "clean and a little rock-and-roll" jewelry-makers (Gaia Repossi and Dominic Jones), and lesser-known labels (Graeme Armour and Hakaan).
In Pattern, Singh writes, "Cushnie and Michelle Ochs's dresses form a kind of second skin on the body," which Cushnie calls "not easy at all ... We fit and re-fit our production samples to ensure we have a good fit for our customers. It's important for women to feel secure in our clothes." Asked what's next for her brand, she said, "We've already started thinking about Resort — when you're first starting a collection, you always think, God, what are we going to do? But there hasn't been a lack of ideas yet. At least there's two of us." She continued, "There's no real science to it. It's just a progression of what we've been doing and how we're both feeling ... our underlying DNA is very much the same — we still reinvent it every season, but she's still the same woman." Perhaps when we talk next, Cushnie will be on the curating side of Phaidon's threequel.
Click through our slideshow for a preview of Pattern.BEGIN SLIDESHOW
Most Viewed Stories
Rob Kardashian and Blac Chyna Reportedly Broke Up
The Very Uncomfortable Experience of Rewatching Election in 2016
It’s Finally Possible to Understand What Happened to Amanda Knox
Outrageous Party Photos From Andy Warhol’s Factory Days
Ask Polly: Should I Try to Help My Alcoholic Friend?
Ask a Boss: My Co-worker Wants Everyone to Call Her Boyfriend Her ‘Master’!
Chelsea Clinton Says She Didn’t Initially Know Her Mom Had Pneumonia Because She Was Trying to Power Through It
22 Intimate Lost Photos of Marilyn Monroe
YogaToes Cured My Lifelong Fear of Bunions
This Lipstick Was Designed by a Woman Who Can See 100 Million Colors
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.