Fur is officially trending at the men’s fall/winter 2014/2015 collections in Paris. Yesterday, it was fur stoles at Dries Van Noten, and today, in addition to fur-lined hoods and fuzzy collars, there were long fur coats at both Givenchy and Maison Martin Margiela.
The Margiela show, held in the Oscar Niemeyer—designed French Communist Party headquarters, had models cast as men on a mission reclaiming “a utopian world.” There were strong military references — utility vests, a bomber-jacket patch worked together with sturdy waterproof and windcheater fabrics, and lace-up boots — but these post-apocalyptic heroes managed to also look dashingly stylish. Some of the earlier looks had the attitude of an off-duty Hugh Grant (circa Four Weddings and a Funeral): three-piece suits, top shirt-buttons undone, and hair that looked charmingly foppish.
It was a relatively understated collection for Margiela, but much of the showmanship lay in subtle details — like the oversize, fur-lined pockets, and a cape that first looked like a blanket but was actually made in the shape of a trench. Not such an easy thing to pull off.
While there were no masks at Margiela, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy had his models wearing netting over their faces like sport-guards. The ostensible theme for this show was basketball, or more specifically, “Basketball and Bauhaus,” according to Twitter. To set the scene, Tisci reimagined a basketball court — foreboding, perhaps, because of his upcoming collaboration with Nike — and encircled the runway in a wire fence with the lines of the court outlined by fluorescent lighting. There was even a scoreboard on display with Tisci’s lucky number 17 lit up.
The players in this game were dressed in ultra-luxe suiting and sportswear: stylish velvet, wool, and full-leather suits were worn with chunky sneakers; likewise, suit pants were paired back with crisp white shirts and bomber jackets. Most interesting was the designer’s literal exploration of the basketball itself. The round shape guided the sleeve and shoulder silhouette, and the lines or patterns on the ball were used as markings for graphics, fabric construction, and zipper placement.
Female model (and Tisci muse) Mariacarla Boscono made a cameo appearance amongst the men, wearing two looks: a bandeau top with men’s trousers, and then, what appeared to be a fur vest, belted. Post-show, all Carine Roitfeld could say was that she wanted to be Boscono — “I mean, seriously!” – and, of course, Kanye West was also present, wearing a long fur coat over a hoodie. Yeezy, always getting the trend memos long before the rest of us.
Most Viewed Stories
Portraits of Privilege: A Teen Demands Mac ’n’ Cheese
Staving Off Cynicism at Comme des Garçons, McQueen, and Céline
‘Weed Dick’ Is the New Way for Men to Sexually Disappoint You
How to Get Out of Any Party Conversation
Maybe Refrain from Tweeting 'Kill All White Men'
Charging My Phone in the World’s Most Beautiful Abercrombie
9 Books We’re Reading Right Now
Why Do I Jerk Awake Right As I’m Falling Asleep?
Amber Rose, Populist Slut Hero of Our Time
From Our Partners
Women's Health: These Women Defy The Stereotype That Yogis Only Come In One Shape and Size
The Evolution Of Lady Gaga In One Fabulous, Ooh-La-La GIF
6 Reasons It's Good Some People Don't Like You
Color Correcting Is the Makeup Step You're Missing Before Contouring
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesLouis Vuitton’s Show Was Fit for a Sci-Fi Heroine
Leeloos and Furiosas stalked the runway.Watch the Louis Vuitton Livestream
Enjoy!Libertine’s Designer Once Faked a Note From Cher
And other anecdotes from his new book.See All the Street Style From Paris Fashion Week
Rihanna, Salma Hayek, and Phoebe Philo were among the peacocks.Karl Lagerfeld Won’t Offer Himself Up to Science
He says researchers have approached him about testing his DNA.Staving Off Cynicism at Comme des Garçons, McQueen, and Céline
A counterpoint to luxury-mongering.Cate Blanchett Wore a Hot-Pink Suit
Barbie, is that you?All About Chanel’s Airport-Themed Show
Paging Mr. Lagerfeld!Watch the Valentino Livestream
Enjoy!5 Things I Want to Wear From Paris: Part 3
Stripes, embroidered separates, and Céline studded boots.
And how she's helping her daughter navigate the pressures of the modeling industry.Zendaya Floated Around Paris Like a Cloud
Dreamy.See Our Exclusive Portfolio From Paris Fashion Week
Another fashion month dispatch from photographer Tomasz Lazar.Coddington, Kawakubo Star in Interview Portfolio
They were photographed for a sweeping 60-page section by Fabien Baron.American Apparel Files for Bankruptcy
Current shareholders, including Dov Charney, will no longer control the company.The Retired Modeling Agent Who Loves Empire
“I started my own agency — we represented Twiggy — but went off to be assistant to the actor Yul Brynner, who was dating my roommate at the time.”Bright Coats for Cold Days
New York women in winter's least-boring outerwear, from bright-green alpaca fur to leopard-print mohair.Céline’s Woman-Friendly Triumph
Phoebe Philo remains in touch with what women want to wear.Watch the Alexander McQueen Livestream
Enjoy!Watch the Akris Livestream