As soon as we entered the building for today's Prada show, it was clear that the mood from Miuccia Prada's artful, athletic spring collection was a thing of the past. This season's show took place in a dark industrial space, with walls and floors covered in fabric. A chain-link fence surrounded the crowd.
It was the same staging as Prada's recent men's collection, called "Act 1" — and today's show, which was titled "Act 2," felt like the next chapter. An orchestra, led by conductor Francesco Bossaglia and with a solo performance by singer Barbara Sukowa, played music mostly by German composers such as Kurt Weill and Arnold Shoenberg. From the staging and the music, we knew were in for an industrialist, Bauhaus fantasy.
As the music pulsed throughout the room, models came out in silky dresses and big boxy coats. There were a number of standout shearlings in gold, purple, marigold, and black layered over sheer dresses or loose Chevron knit sweaters. Bauhaus prints felt like they were made for a woman sitting in a Viennese café. Each model wore wedge heels, with skinny scarves tied round their necks. Flap-front bags with thick chain straps were carried behind them like messengers.
Perversion is the word that people often throw around when talking about Prada's message. But it has to be: Sex, intellect, and the modern woman are constant themes in her work. And this season, those themes manifested themselves in the heavy shearlings that protect from the cold, but are worn over sheer layers that reveal. Rubbery wedge boots seem practical for weather, but are also kinky. Scarves are meant to keep one warm, but they could be perceived as sexually suggestive. Same goes for a red shaggy goat dress, which was thick and warm, but felt animalistic and called attention to the leg. Prada seems to be posing a question for women next fall: Do you want to look smart, or do you want an air of seduction? Judging from this collection, the answer is both.
Most Viewed Stories
Aubrey Plaza Is Currently Serving Up the Most Terrifying Performance on TV
The Only Woman Mike Pence Is Allowed to Eat Alone With Is His Wife
Bobbi Brown on Why She Really Left Her Brand and Resisted Making a Contour Palette, and Her Next Moves
The Makeup Police Have Come to Arrest Alicia Keys
Ali Wong Loves Kondo-ing So Much, She Named Her Daughter After It
All the Things Women Are Doing Wrong
Kris Jenner Is Reportedly Trying to Find Time to Break Up With Corey Gamble
Why Millennial Pink Refuses to Go Away
Ask Polly: My Friend Says I’m Always Competing With Her for Men!
Maxine Waters on Why She Decided ‘to Take the Gloves Off and Go for It’
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.