The models at last night's Givenchy show moved through a warehouse on an endless carpeted runway, walking so briskly, one on the heels of another, that it was a bit like trying to keep up with a conveyor belt spewing out fashion bonbons faster than they could be consumed. As a matter of pure logistics, designer Riccardo Tisci had narrowed his runway so that the audience sat a mere ten feet away from the clothes as they sprinted by under white-hot overhead lighting. Clearly, Tisci wanted his audience to see his ideas and get a clear look at his vision, but not obsess over the details.
Ethereal, ruffled, and multilayered dresses in animal prints galloped past and were gone. Was that some sort of leather strap stretched across the back? Beautifully tailored blazers and high-waist trousers whizzed by and those same mysterious, wide bands showed up again on the back of the jackets and along the hips of the pants. Ah, yes! They were indeed straps.
Whoosh! There went an extraordinary coat of myriad textures — downy feathers and delicate fur coming together in a single garment. Black velvet trousers and cropped jackets ran by in a zippy take on a tuxedo. Pleated skirts topped with sweaters slung around the waist were held fast thanks to the reappearance of those wide, almost-industrial stretchy straps.
After multiple viewings of similar themes, the eye began to adjust and the prints and layers and straps looked, if not pretty, then striking. But just before being wholly seduced by Tisci’s whirlwind of a come-on, one couldn't help but wonder: How does a woman get that sweater off her hips if she happens to be out and about when she gets a sudden chill? Does she shimmy it down her tush and step out of it on a street corner? Never mind, on to the next look.
Unfortunately, Tisci, like so many designers for fall 2014, used a peculiar shade of institutional mint green as a flourish on his earth-toned dresses and as the centerpiece of much of his tailoring. It has yet to become more pleasing with repetition. The collection benefits when Tisci works in a darker, moodier palette. The shades of chocolate brown, black, umber, and gold cast the frocks in a luxurious, mysterious glow.
The final garments in the collection, the most dramatic ones, felt like mixed-media art projects — a black lace gown, topped with a kind of fur breastplate; a fitted tank covered in a pastiche of paillettes and crystals in the front and little more than sheer netting in the back. Paired with black trousers, it would make a refreshingly distinctive formal option — eveningwear that roars.
Barely ten minutes after tearing through the room like a tidal wave, the show ended. Tisci didn’t present a collection as much as he reproduced the feeling of contemporary fashion flooding toward you faster than you can take it all in, sort it out, and understand it. The take-away — aside from his artful mix of textures, flirtatious but discomforting dresses, and unorthodox layering — seemed to be a reminder that sometimes you just have to relax, let it all wash over you in a pleasant rush, and float.
Most Viewed Stories
Trump Campaign Manager Accidentally Refers to His ‘Abuse’ of Women on Live TV
It’s Finally Possible to Understand What Happened to Amanda Knox
Looks Like Kate Middleton Is Enjoying the View in Canada
Finally Someone Called Donald Trump a Giant Baby and It Was Michelle Obama
The Very Uncomfortable Experience of Rewatching Election in 2016
Rob Kardashian and Blac Chyna Reportedly Broke Up
Ask a Boss: My Co-worker Wants Everyone to Call Her Boyfriend Her ‘Master’!
Ask Polly: Should I Try to Help My Alcoholic Friend?
22 Intimate Lost Photos of Marilyn Monroe
Outrageous Party Photos From Andy Warhol’s Factory Days
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.