This week marked the end of fashion month, as well as Robin Givhan’s second season as the Cut’s contributing fashion critic. After covering everything from Thom Browne’s religious inspirations to Hood by Air’s powerful presentation of gender and race in New York, Givhan headed to Paris to bring us more insightful reports from the European runways. There, she discussed the “real women” who modeled at Rick Owens, Chanel’s playful brand-awareness, why good fashion doesn’t require clothes to serve as a Rorschach test, and much more. Here’s the full list of all of her fall 2014 runway reviews from New York and Paris:
On Miu Miu’s luxurious technical sportswear.
On Nicolas Ghesquière’s historically informed vision for Louis Vuitton.
On the folkloric sensibility at Valentino and wooded beauty at McQueen.
On Chanel’s supermarket pop-up.
On Saint Laurent’s fixation on teenage brooding.
On the magnetic energy and wry humor of Stella McCartney.
On Riccardo Tisci’s ethereal eveningwear at Givenchy.
On Phoebe Philo’s powerful visual simplicity at Céline.
On the willful uncertainty of Comme des Garçons' and Junya Watanabe’s collections.
On Haider Ackermann’s heart-pounding soundtrack and elegant clothes.
On Raf Simons’s joyful color-blindness on Dior.
On the individuality and intimacy of Rick Owens's runway.
On Alexander Wang’s urbane and commercial sensibility at Balenciaga.
On Dries Van Noten’s effortless eloquence and relaxed precision.
On Marc Jacobs’s airy, yet substantive, collection.
On Ralph Lauren’s reliable elegance.
On Proenza Schouler's vibrantly of-the-moment collection.
On Marc by Marc Jacobs’ intriguing reinvention.
On Donna Karan’s mid-career stammering.
On Thom Browne’s religious influences.
On Diane von Furstenberg’s happy 40th anniversary celebration.
On Hood by Air’s powerful commentary on gender and race.
On Alexander Wang’s braggart move to Brooklyn.
On the challenge of finding true identities at Prabal Gurung, Peter Som, and rag & bone.
On Jason Wu’s disappointingly dated collection.
On the jarring speed bumps at Creatures of the Wind.
On Rachel Comey’s willful indifference.